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Dirty Crack - 5.8 popular

Average Rating = 3.30/5 Average Rating : 3.30 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 12
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (24)
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Rock
One or two small trees to sling. Lots of cam placements in the crack.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.62/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

The Climber's Guide to North Carolina gives this route a 'not recommended'. I'm not sure why. Nothing seemed terribly loose and it was reasonably well protected, especially for Stone.

Submitted by: lstockett on 2004-03-17
Last Modified: 2011-03-27
Views: 1927
Route ID: 50163

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24 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2013-05-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Feeling A Little Nostalgic

This was my preferred route to the tree ledge at one time and I have climbed it on numerous occasions, just not recently until today. There is a thin section of crack between the two trees but nothing really difficult. I was able to use one nut, a #1 C3, and a .3 C4 in the thin section, all of which were solid placements. I always reach up and grab the arete above while working the thin crack. There are also plenty of holds on the face. I did sling both of the trees for pro but did not touch them with my hands or feet otherwise. There is nothing wrong with this route other than the fact that it is a little stiffer than many other Stone Mountain routes of equal grade. It is an excellent practice route for those wanting to lead entirely on trad gear, especially smaller gear.

Added: 2013-05-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: jsaunders on 2012-01-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars harder when wet

Tougher this time. Had to take mid crux but finished it

Added: 2012-01-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jsaunders on 2011-12-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars nice one!

very nice onsight. Did feel that it gets a worse reputation than it deserves. felt that the gear between the two trees were all pretty shotty. small c3s, wasnt too confident in any of them but partner thought they were ok. good route - will do again

Added: 2011-12-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: mjwestla on 2011-01-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars logged some flight time on this one

Nice day but still some left over ice and snow in the area and as a result some sections of the route had ice in the cracks and dripping wet spots, notably the section below the first tree. Still, in spite of that the friction and foot dishes were good enough that I made it through that OK and slung the first tree without getting too freaked out. However I blew it making the move up to the next little tree at the route's crux and caught some air, taking me down to somewhere near the first tree. The pin scars in the corner take really solid gear though (yay grey .4 camalot!) and the low angle make the fall pretty minor even though I went a bit further than I was expecting. Finagled my way up through on the 2nd attempt although it felt harder than 8 the way I did it, but whatever the grades at Stone seem more subjective than a lot of other places I've climbed. Once over the crux I was thinking a big cam would have been nice (to have something more solid than slinging that puny tree) but it's a couple fairly moderate moves before the going gets super easy and you're done.

Good route.

Added: 2011-01-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: MonkeySpank on 2010-03-06 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Humbling lead experience

I have lead a couple of 5.9s at Stone, so wasn't expecting to be challenged on this one, but I took my first lead fall at the crux (twice), before pushing through to the tree led. Thank God for the red C3 pro in the crack at the crux!

Added: 2010-03-08

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