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Between the Ways - 5.10c

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Mike Fischesser (1994)
Rock (Sport)
G
2
Generously bolted by Stone standards. This is one of the few routes at Stone that was bolted on rappel.
290
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

The start is between Great white Way and Great Brown Way, directly below the obviously bolted line. There are six bolts on the first pitch and a two bolt belay. The start is a little difficult but it is protected by a bolt down low. After the first bolt, there are some excellent holds/jugs leading to another bolt. The climbing becomes difficult again up to about the fourth bolt. There are plenty of micro holds, so be prepared for some crystal pinching. None of the climbing would be considered desperate and the bolts are just where you need them. Pitch two goes up and then right to the bolt on Great Brown Way and finishes on that route. There are a total of two bolts on the last pitch but the climbing is considerably easier. Route finding is not a problem with this line.

Descent Options:

Walk off or rappel from the anchors above Bombay Groove. A 70M rope will get you to the tree ledge with three raps, or use two ropes for two raps.

Submitted by: johnnyb336 on 2011-09-04
Views: 376
Route ID: 109806

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2012-09-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Highly Recommended

I'm trying to work through an ankle sprain I suffered during a fall a few weeks ago and was ready for something a little headier. The start is a little tough but fun. It is possible to start from the left or right and move back over to the bolt but that would make it too easy. I started directly under the bolt and studied the moves for several minutes before pulling it off. It just feels wrong having so many bolts. The second pitch can be a little sketchy due to the crumbling rock. There were flakes of rock the size of a dvd case ready to come loose. Pay close attention to where you step. I lead both pitches and lead all of Bombay Groove afterwards. That was all my ankle could take for the day.

Added: 2012-10-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: MonkeySpank on 2012-01-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars First 10c

Followed on this one, first pitch only. Popped off a couple of times moving from the second to the third bolt. The sticky texture on this route is amazing once you get past the third bolt.

Added: 2012-01-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-09-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun Sport Lead

Even though it was a bit warm, it was cloudy the entire time we climbed and made for a rather pleasant day. I had a little difficulty getting past the first bolt but finally figured out the moves. Getting to the next bolt is quite easy and fun. After that, the climbing gets steep and blank and becomes mildly difficult again. I found there to be some nice crystals and pinched my way past the next few bolts. I never had a feeling of desperation and just took my time locating the holds. The climbing from the fourth bolt up to the belay station was much easier, with more space between the bolts. After the sixth bolt and before reaching the belay, a bolt can be seen on Great Brown Way that is just a few feet to the right. I probably would have clipped it but I only brought six quickdraws with me, not realizing that I would use all of them before reaching the belay. The belay is a bit uncomfortable like most at Stone. The second pitch goes up and then to the right at the next bolt on Great Brown Way and finishes on that route. This is definitely one of the easier routes to follow at Stone Mountain. We rapped back down using a 70M rope.

Added: 2011-09-04