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Moby Dick - 5.10b

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock
PG13
1
Bolts
70
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 3.33/5
  Scenery 3.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

Talk about roof action! This climb is near the waterfall, follow the trail down to the left side of the falls (if you are facing the waterfall and is about 20 to 30 up) and look for the corner of the wall with about 3 different roofs. Climb up to the first roof and clip in. To get past, you need to find an undercling and really reach back to grab a nice jug on the arete. From here you have to let your feet go and use your arms to get past the sharp arete to the next roof. You can use your feet but you will be advised to use heel hooks. At the second roof you can use this as an area to sit and rest for a minute. Then pull over it onto a flat wall which you can use to get you back out onto the arete. Finally you reach the last roof which is a 90 degree 8-10 ft hanger that just looks scary. Use the arete to pull out on top of it and clip into the bolts up top.

Descent Options:

Rappel or walk off top.

Submitted by: zmasters2 on 2008-05-16
Views: 903
Route ID: 93783

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: rbutler on 2012-08-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars beefy

Saw it, didn'y feel up to doing a sketchy lead on something that I never climbed before. I climbed it twice, the first time I skipped the first roof and traversed to the arete on the first main ledge up there. It proved to be some really tough moves that were exposed and super fun. And I did the flat part instead of the arete after the second route which also didn't feel like a 5.10anything climb. Overall it felt tougher than 10b..

Added: 2012-08-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: huntinhoundogboy on 2009-10-16 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars give it doo

the second over hang is scary as crap on lead and will totally pump your arms I tryed the route for months on end and make that personal asscent is an awsome rush the two roof are nice and pumpy if you follow the acctual route definatly fun

Added: 2010-04-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rat-baby on 2008-09-06 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars .

Never, ever climb here.

Added: 2008-09-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: zmasters2 on 2007-11-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars I felt like Capt. Ahab

I saw this the first time I came out and had dreams and nightmares about it until this fateful day. I took a couple of good whippers and even got sucked into the flat wall after the second roof a couple of times. But I finally hit it using the arete and topped out with a smile. It will pump you out and if you try to ascend the flat wall after the second roof versus taking the arete, it will easily change the climb to a 10d or 11. I hit that the second time I ascended it and I have to say that the arete just seemed more fun and interesting. Careful of the whippers though, taking one over the roof isnt fun.

Added: 2008-05-16