Large slightly overhanging chimney. Mildly intimidating in the upper portion as the chimney becomes shallower forcing you out towards the face. Start the climb facing right and worm your way up. Be prepared to change body orientation to face left.
Submitted by: bulldog on 2002-01-16
Route ID: 9290
The first time I tried to climb this route last month, I couldn't even get past the first crux/ roof. This time I was able to get up there and complete it soooo much better. It was a blast. I did not climb out of the chimney, but went pretty deep in while climbing. Started facing right as I wormed my way up and then I changed to the left. After a bit, I ended up facing the right, and climbing a good crack while in the chimney. Climbed all the way up and into the cave. Sadly I couldn't not climb any higher because of a thunder storm that was quickly approaching.
According to my belay partner who has climbed many 5.10 and higher routes, he would rate Caterpillar as a 5.9+ or a 5.10! I'm am so glad to have been able to climb and complete this route! It's a blast!
Did about the first 2/3rds of this and ducked out left to finish at the bolts for Electra. Worked out nicely, although the last two feet to the bolts was a bit interesting.
Good pro available in most places but the rock is quite polished too. Took me a while to get situated under the first little roof and find holds that I trusted - things might have been different if I were further out towards the edge, not sure. Interesting process twisting and turning around to find gear and holds - nice solution pocket about halfway up for a #3 C4 :)
Will have to come back and top the whole thing out via the full on chimney/cave at the end next time!