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Encore - 5.11b

Average Rating = 4.45/5 Average Rating : 4.45 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
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Rock (Trad)
G
2
Small to medium nuts, TCUs, and Friends up to #3.
90
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.67/5
  Scenery 4.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

Classic steep Hawksbill trad! Both the Fat Lady and Encore are characteristic of HB climbing -- wildly overhung, juggy and with an abundance of textbook letterbox cam placements. Though it's normally done in two pitches, Encore can be climbed in one pitch easily with double ropes.

Pitch 1: Step off into a broken, slightly right-leaning dihedral (just left of a large low roof and right of a slightly higher roof). Awkward moves splitting the two roofs lead to a stance. Protect the left face with shallow, small cams and then bust left and up to a ledge. Belay on the ledge, slightly left of a prominent seam/crack, which splits a stunning overhanging white headwall. (No bolts at this anchor -- build your own.)

Pitch 2: Climb the seam until it's possible to trend left, heading for a bolt in a hanging dihedral. (Note: The Fat Lady breaks right from the top of the seam to another dihedral and the infamous "Fat Lady finish..." mwah-hahaha!) Ape left out the dihedral on dream jugs, heading for a two-bolt anchor just above the lip of the roof.

Descent Options:

Lower from the anchor and belay your second from the ground on a social TR. Requires a 60m rope.

Submitted by: trevor on 2006-12-12
Last Modified: 2010-06-14
Views: 1282
Route ID: 82

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13 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: A-Bowl on 2012-06-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Nice line with an easy roof finish.

The guts were right in the middle with great crack moves. The finish is just a glory gallup. easily done in one pitch from the ground with long runners/no gear at the bottom.

Added: 2012-06-25

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sf on 2010-06-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars .

Yep, it is good!

Added: 2010-06-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: csproul on 2009-07-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars did fat lady to encore

Followed this route. Incredible route with steep lieback and thin crack up to a steep overhang on horizontals.

Added: 2009-07-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: munky on 2009-06-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fat Lady/Encore finish

Great climb. Do it as one pitch.

Added: 2009-06-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: boglins on 2009-04-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars pumpy finish

pumpy at the end...clipping the anchor was hard

Added: 2009-04-25

... Read all 13 ascent notes