Encore - 5.11b
Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (14)
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Rock (Trad)
G
2
Small to medium nuts, TCUs, and Friends up to #3.
90
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Description:
Classic steep Hawksbill trad! Both the Fat Lady and Encore are characteristic of HB climbing -- wildly overhung, juggy and with an abundance of textbook letterbox cam placements. Though it's normally done in two pitches, Encore can be climbed in one pitch easily with double ropes.Pitch 1: Step off into a broken, slightly right-leaning dihedral (just left of a large low roof and right of a slightly higher roof). Awkward moves splitting the two roofs lead to a stance. Protect the left face with shallow, small cams and then bust left and up to a ledge. Belay on the ledge, slightly left of a prominent seam/crack, which splits a stunning overhanging white headwall. (No bolts at this anchor -- build your own.)
Pitch 2: Climb the seam until it's possible to trend left, heading for a bolt in a hanging dihedral. (Note: The Fat Lady breaks right from the top of the seam to another dihedral and the infamous "Fat Lady finish..." mwah-hahaha!) Ape left out the dihedral on dream jugs, heading for a two-bolt anchor just above the lip of the roof.
Descent Options:
Lower from the anchor and belay your second from the ground on a social TR. Requires a 60m rope.
Submitted by: trevor on 2006-12-12
Last Modified: 2010-06-14
Views: 1878
Route ID: 82
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14 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 14 ascent notes
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by: gogalac on 2016-09-13
(View Climbing Log)
encore
a wee bit pumpy. One pitch with extended slings until the ledge.
Added: 2016-09-20
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: A-Bowl on 2012-06-24
(View Climbing Log)
Nice line with an easy roof finish.
The guts were right in the middle with great crack moves. The finish is just a glory gallup. easily done in one pitch from the ground with long runners/no gear at the bottom.
Added: 2012-06-25
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: sf on 2010-06-12
(View Climbing Log)
.
Yep, it is good!
Added: 2010-06-13
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
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Top Rope ascent by: csproul on 2009-07-27
(View Climbing Log)
did fat lady to encore
Followed this route. Incredible route with steep lieback and thin crack up to a steep overhang on horizontals.
Added: 2009-07-27
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: munky on 2009-06-06
(View Climbing Log)
Fat Lady/Encore finish
Great climb. Do it as one pitch.
Added: 2009-06-06