Classic steep Hawksbill trad! Both the Fat Lady and Encore are characteristic of HB climbing -- wildly overhung, juggy and with an abundance of textbook letterbox cam placements. Though it's normally done in two pitches, Encore can be climbed in one pitch easily with double ropes.
Pitch 1: Step off into a broken, slightly right-leaning dihedral (just left of a large low roof and right of a slightly higher roof). Awkward moves splitting the two roofs lead to a stance. Protect the left face with shallow, small cams and then bust left and up to a ledge. Belay on the ledge, slightly left of a prominent seam/crack, which splits a stunning overhanging white headwall. (No bolts at this anchor -- build your own.)
Pitch 2: Climb the seam until it's possible to trend left, heading for a bolt in a hanging dihedral. (Note: The Fat Lady breaks right from the top of the seam to another dihedral and the infamous "Fat Lady finish..." mwah-hahaha!) Ape left out the dihedral on dream jugs, heading for a two-bolt anchor just above the lip of the roof.
Lower from the anchor and belay your second from the ground on a social TR. Requires a 60m rope.
Submitted by: trevor on 2006-12-12
Last Modified: 2010-06-14
Route ID: 82