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Fathom Direct - 5.10b

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Rock
Direct line to the right of the obvious Fathom.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.20/5
  Rock Quality 4.80/5
  Scenery 4.60/5
  Fun Factor 4.40/5

Description:

I think this route is also called begoon offenbacher and is mostly bolted. That X rated route Hone Ranger is over to the right and also has bolts and looks just as good. It also doesn't look too bad. You can take a .5, a #1, and a #2 Camalot. There was only really about two places where you can put in any gear. The first pitch is a little hard and scary but pretty safe. I think the second pitch has a nasty looking start where you climb up on some thin stuff about 15- 20 ft. to clip the bolt and if you fall you would fall on the anchors. After that theres about two or three bolts about 30ft apart. I combined the third and the fourth pitches with a 70m rope to save time. I put long slings on the bolts. The third and the fourth pitches weren't as scary as that 2nd pitch. All you need is about three cams and about 6 draws or slings. Go light and bold on the bottom. Once you make it up to the roof and link up with Fathom you'll need TCU's for the crack going up into the groove. You then have very nice looking bolts like a sport route. If you climb solid 11's then this route should be great. The bolts are very nice and look brand new. You can also rap straight down. Actually looking further Fathom direct starts further left from begoon and traverses into begoon or over into hone ranger. We didn't see this though. I guess it starts up high by that tree. Hope this helps. Lee

Submitted by: robinson_321 on 2006-08-22
Views: 1617
Route ID: 75763

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6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gogalac on 2015-03-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fathom direct

Awesome adventure w/ Tim. We leapfrogged pitches. Camped out at a great site at the Panthertown parking area. Hike in to base of route took us 2 hours. Pitch 1: "Have and Not Need" 5.10c, 5 bolts (R). Pitch 2: 5.9+ Traverse 2 bolts and 2 pieces of gear (R). Pitch 3: 5.10a bolts and gear (PG13). Pitch 4: 5.10a bolts and gear (PG13). Pitch 5: 5.10d bolts and gear (R). Pitch 6: 5.10a Joins up w/ Fathom for awesome roof move, bolts and gear (G). Pitches 7 and 8 were wet so we rappelled with two 60s from here. Pitches 3 and 4 could easily be linked. 1 set of cams from smallest tcu to 2.0 camelot is more than sufficient, there is not much gear on this route. 2 hours back to camp. Really enjoyed this route, but it is def heads up, would recommend adequate slab experience and a strong head. For the record, I was anemic and sleep deprived when we did this thing and diagnosed with ulcerative colitis a few days later. The hike out felt hard!

Added: 2015-03-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2008-11-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars excellent stemming

I just got done with three routes at laurel--others unknown. I thought they were great--fathom direct included. But every one had no fall ground at 5.9 or 5.10, and insecure. I thought the crux was the 6th pitch of fathom. Do people aid that spot? It seemed much harder than anything on Fathom Direct.
I made the hike twice. Second time out took me 70 minutes; my partner Tyler, 20 years younger, took 55 minutes. The hike is nice.

Added: 2008-11-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: blakegt on 2007-11-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars First multipitch

This was my first multipitch. I climbed it with my friend Andrew. He led the whole thing.

Added: 2007-11-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cccman on 2007-04-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fathom Direct

long!

Added: 2007-04-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: csproul on 2007-02-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars begoon offenbacher

This route is actually Begoon Offenbacher. Fathom starts over left up the slanting corner and joins Begoon Offenbacher at the top of the 4th anchor. Fathom Direct starts between the two and joins B/O after a pitch or two and I think you could either finish B/O or Hone Ranger. I thought the first 3 pitches and the headwall (6th pitch) were all about the same difficulty at mid 5.10, although the 3rd and 6th were better protected than the 1st and 2nd.

Added: 2007-02-25

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