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Groover - 5.8 popular

Average Rating = 4.80/5 Average Rating : 4.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Rock
6
Trad Gear
860
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.38/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.75/5
  Fun Factor 4.62/5

Description:

Start by hiking all the way left across the bottom of the crag following a trail almost up to the mouth of Dillard Canyon and curl back right to the base of the route at a huge white pine. Follow cracks up and right to tree ledge. Continue up cracks for another 400ft. When finally confronted with a steeper blank stepover to a groove on pitch 4, down climb to easier terrain and a 3 piece in a surreal quartz hole. Move up and right to next groove then up easy terrain with no gear to natural belay in solution pockets. Original route went straight up this most often wet groove with no pro. An easier variation continues up and right following a crack till you can step right into a groove with a 2-bolt belay atop P7 of Forbidden Fruit. Climb up and right angling for the easier right-hand watergroove and climb to belay with no gear on easy terrain. RAP - Rappel 140ft diagonally down and left to anchors of Forbidden Fruit. Rap straight down FF many times to ground.

Submitted by: sketch on 2006-06-12
Views: 3238
Route ID: 77389

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11 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: csproul on 2010-11-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars first pitch only

Had time to just do the first pitch. It is really good and I can't wait to go back and do the rest.

Added: 2010-11-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating R
Onsight Onsight ascent by: justroberto on 2010-05-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sweet

Led P2, 4 & 6. The only particularly heady move was a slabby move in the P6 water groove 50 feet or so up and right of the anchor with no gear. Maybe we were off route a little, but the crack above was completely soaked and covered in lichen, so I just headed right into the groove off the belay.

Added: 2010-05-21

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kubok13 on 2010-05-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars none

good times...

Added: 2010-05-21

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clemsonscooby on 2010-05-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ultra Classic

Probably one of the best and longest 5.8's in the state and perhaps the East Coast. The runout on P4 was much more tame than most make it out to be and the gear opportunities were not missed. Thought the moves on P3 were harder than P4. The rappel sucks, but not enough to deter. Get on this thing!

Added: 2010-05-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sarahoh on 2009-04-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Worth the hike

Super fun NC friction classic. All pitches take good pro except the crux 4th pitch which is a bit runout, but provide lots of excitement.

Added: 2009-04-06

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