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Cornflake Crack - 5.11a popular

Average Rating = 4.91/5 Average Rating : 4.91 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (14)
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Trad, takes all sizes of gear up to #1 or 2 Camelot.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.86/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.29/5
  Fun Factor 4.86/5

Description:

One the raddest corners eh-vah! Thin and pumpy low lieback crux. Second pitch is the most extreme stemming this of Devil's Tower.

Submitted by: j_ung on 2003-12-31
Views: 2585
Route ID: 46433

14 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 2003-09-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars about this time

The first ten feet is hard. Afterthat, a runout area--at least PG. The second pitch is more sustained, but without the hard move of the first wet pitch.

Added: 2012-09-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: A-Bowl on 2012-08-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great variety

Hard earned onsight when wet. I had to down climb from the extremely wet underling at the start 4 times before saying oh well and just over gripping through the water. More seepage above, actually a lot for a "classic". While I thought it was good to have a slice if Yosemite style, that is all it was. If this is your bag you can get on ten pitches of this in a row all over the west that stay dry, so you better go there. I loved this route though and will do it again cuz I dont think it will ever feel easy. Get on this thing

Added: 2012-08-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: bdc on 2011-10-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars One Route to Rule Them All

Many stars...very G.

Added: 2011-10-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: drivel on 2010-09-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars wow.

this climb is amazing but it's kind of a joke that this gets .11a and safari jive gets .11c?both pitches are harder than safari jive, and much more continuous. clean follow, cleaning all gear, of camhead's lead.

Added: 2010-09-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: camhead on 2010-09-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Insanely Good.

This is one of the best 5.11 crack routes in the nation. Super varied face and crack, stemming, jamming, laying back, everything. Take lots of little gear for the first pitch a lots of mid-sized gear for the second.

There really should be some bolted anchors at the top of the second pitch, however. I know about the strict NC trad ethic and all, but it is ridiculous to keep killing the trees on the ledge this way.

PG13 for a section on pitch 1 where you have to cimb onto the slab and about 15 feet out from tiny gear. Not really PG13, but I would not call this a g-rated sew-up fest.

Added: 2010-09-07

... Read all 14 ascent notes