Routes : North America : United States : North Carolina : Western : Looking Glass Rock : North Face : Glass I A.K.A Carolina Hardcore Ecstasy
Previous
Glass I A.K.A Carolina Hardcore Ecstasy - 5.13a
|
Dan caldwell and many many others. FFa: P1?/ P2-5 R. Burnett P2-3 link up D.Sharrot
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
G
5
Every thing from #00 to a #6.
450
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
This route skirts the left side of the Peregrine roof by the obvious overhanging off width flake. P1: 5.11a Starts directly below the OW flake. Cruise 30' hand crack to it's end then start clipping bolts till the anchor. P2: 5.12+ Short but brutal pitch. Undercling till you can pull into the flake feature for a stance then tackle the boulder problem finish. Fingers to tips. P1 and 2 can be linked for a killer single pitch using long slings on P1's bolts. A 60M rope will make it to the ground if the belayer climbs up the easy crack to the right of the start. Watch the ends! P3: 5.13a The terror toaster pitch. toss away the big cam then start wide undercling out the OW roof till you can clip a bolt, (Use a short draw, the bolt is there to keep the rope clear of the sharp edge on the flake.) then pull into the steep gapping corner and punch it to a stance. Pull a mini roof to a pumpy technical face with a red point crux at the anchor. 3 bolts, #6,#3, and a coupe yellow tcus. P2 and 3 can be linked but won't change the grade. It's one of the better pitches at the LG. P4 5.12a Probably the best pitch on the route. Long and technical. Pull the roof, tackle the slab, take on the groove, pimp the boulder problem, then cruise the the finger/hand crack to a wild mantle at the anchor. 7 or so bolts, nuts and a decent rack of cams. P5 5.10+/11- Clip a couple bolts and pull a strange crux to get into an excellent hand crack that goes on forever. The pitch finishes with probably a 5.8 run out slab.Descent Options:
Walk off or double rope raps from the top.
Submitted by: rat-baby on 2009-03-11
Views: 177
Route ID: 96612
2 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.13b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
Killer!!
Followed Mr. Sharratt up. He linked the 2&3 pitches, the hanging belay is well, just that, a hanging belay that has no place on a great free route like this, probly 13b without hanging on the bolts, er, um anchors. Nice work fells!!!! More please....
Added: 2008-10-23
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by:
What a ride
Red pointed all the pitches, but not in a day.
Added: 2008-10-22
