Glass Menagerie - 5.13a A2 popular

Excellent route done with Steve in bad conditions. The last two pitches were soaking wet. All free except the open book and roof pitches. Funky 5.11 on pitch 4. sustained crack climbing for the last 200 feet. It ain't over to it's over.

Thanksgiving day 2005, we hiked in and climbed the first pitch and fixed it. The next day, we blasted off and reached the last pitch by 10pm. I was leading most of the climb and did not have a headlamp. I would feel the crack with my hand to decipher which Cam to use and was battling brutal rope drag from trying to link pitches.

Jeremy decided to lead the last pitch, which would be his 2nd lead ever.A few moves of 5.9 then runout 5.6 to the top.

Jeremy ended up slipping on the ice or lichen while on a 40 ft runout, sending him into a 80 to 100 foot fall, head over heals down the slab and over the lip till he came face to face with me. Amazingly he was not hurt except for some scraping, So thankful he was wearing a helmet!!! Even more amazing was that he actually climbed back up, to clean the gear that he had placed. All this, in the dark and cold.

We decided that the only thing we could do, was to tie both of our 60 meter ropes together end to end, and hopefully it would reach the ground. I rappelled first using the gri gri, which left Jeremy with the ATC and the headlamp. I also had the 85lb haulbag attached to my belay loop.

Passing the knot of the ropes was not easy, when the rope is 50 ft out from the wall, you have a haul bag attached to your harness, and at night with no headlamp.

The 2 ropes reached the ground, we made it down safely, I cut off the usable end of the hanging rope and left a fixed line of two ropes leading all the way to the penultimate anchor on the climb.

The temp. of our day on the climb never rose above 34 degrees and being on the north side we were always in the shade.

Anyone remember those ropes???

Just seconded the first pitch. Watch out for the rope on that sharp edge after the route.

Lead clean ground up. Draining. Had about ten minutes on the top to chill before it started raining.

Only P1