Average Rating : 4.32 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (144)
Steve Longenecker, Bob Watts, Bob Gillespie (1966)
Original Route on the wall. Highly Recommended!
Two single move cruxes. Need 2 ropes to rap off of the fourth pitch.
Pitch 1: 5.5, 110ft. Straight up slabs to a bolted belay ledge at the base of the right-angling quartz dike.
Pitch 2: 5.8, 90ft. Move right off the belay up the quartz dike to another bolted belay.
Pitch 3: 5.8, 80ft. Straight up and a little right to a belay station just below the Parking Lot.
Pitch 4: 5.7, 180ft. Straight up the water groove above the Parking Lot.
Please do not rappel the route. A rappel line exists on the far right side of the Parking Lot.
Submitted by: joshlg on 2005-08-30
Last Modified: 2010-11-25
Route ID: 15926
Second time on The Nose and third on the Nose area. Finally had time and ropes to do the 3rd pitch of a route and rap back down. Great climb. Cruxes on 2nd two pitches are right at the beginning. 2nd pitch is easier to protect right of the belay stance, but harder to pull (at least for shorties like me). Excellent pro.
Had to wait a couple of days for the weather to break in order to make the ascent. I lead all four pitches. The first pitch is not really worth mentioning. The wear on the rock makes the line easy to follow and the eyebrows provide ample protection. The move up to the quartz dike from the right side of the first pitch belay was probably the funnest move of the entire route. The rest of the second pitch is fairly uneventful. The third pitch runs slightly right from the belay to a set of heavy rings at the base of the Parking Lot. The fourth pitch follows the obvious, shallow water groove at the back of the Parking Lot. The traction is great, the holds large and plentiful, and the protection fairly easy to locate. I found the rock to be excellent, I don't really understand the low ratings. I am used to climbing on rock of poorer quality. I only used cams for protection.