Yikes! Got to love the Sun Wall for the infamous dirty holds and adventure climbs. Every time I get out here I feel like I'm doing some FA. Dirty holds and at least some sketch rock. That said the climbing is great if not bold as hell.
This route starts just right of Dialing for Buckets under a left facing blocky corner/roof. Look straight up at the water groove and shoot for it. Our final belay was just below the last groove. Expect run outs and some bad gear. Also plan on wiping off the dinge from every handhold as not too many people get over here. Wherever the route gets really cruxy try wandering left of the groove. After pulling through the final groove bust it up and WAY right to the rap ledge with rings on the far side. Full length. One rap to the ground with two 60ms.
Submitted by: jamtoman on 2008-11-17
Route ID: 97095
Did this route with the intention of grabbing some gear I left on Dialing for Buckets. I should have just done that route again. The climbing on Dialing is way more fun and protects much better until that last bulge.