Routes : North America : United States : North Carolina : Western : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : The Odyssey
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The Odyssey - 5.11a
Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock
full crack rack to #3.5/#4 Friend, nuts, TCUs/Aliens
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Description:
P1: start at edge of rock apron, head up to right-leaning crack/overlap to good stance at start of long vertical handcrack. P2: follow the wonderful crack until it fades, then move up & right to good ledge/stance. P3 (crux): move back up and left to re-emerging crack, follow it up past ancient welded Hexes and a bolt, exit left and up to good stance. P4: smear up no-pro ramp to good stance & pro. Keep going up as angle eases, belay where convenient in an eyebrow. P5/finish: scramble to top, descend via the Nose area rappel route (not the Nose route itself).
Submitted by: glockaroo on 2004-01-01
Views: 1483
Route ID: 46462
5 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Epic
This route is amazing. P2 is probably one of the best at the Glass. The crux is exciting and intimidating, but so much fun. Doubles to #3 camalot with a #4 and tri-cams to white. Crux felt harder than Legendary.
Added: 2011-07-31
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
nice climb
I found the first pitch PG/r, and the crux pitch required aliens. a great route. Grade about right.
Added: 2009-10-13
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Fun Factor | |
Great route, better finished with some light
Went up this early in the summer with my buddy Joey and finished the crux pitch with the torch burning. Joey cruised it in the dark. We spent the next four hours finishing, searching for the rap station, then swinging side to side all over the wall looking for anything to bail off, before hunting aimlessly for the top of the Nose and making it back to the base. Take lots of bigger stuff for the second pitch or be prepared to run it out...
Added: 2008-10-15
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
Ascent Note
Unless I was missing something the first pitch is very runout. I found a couple of good TCU placements about 20 feet up and nothing but crap after that to the belay.
Added: 2004-04-26
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
Ascent Note
Perhaps the finest multi-pitch route at the Glass. Every pitch is a classic. Start P1 a little left of where the NC guidebook says. This is really the start of Nuclear Bomb and goes at about 10a but has much better pro than the Odyssey's 5.9 start. P2 sports the truest handcrack at the Glass. Use tape gloves here cuz the crystals will shred the backs of your hands otherwise. Be ready for some off-fist moves as well. Years ago there was a pin & a bolt at the P2 belay which allowed easy retreat, but I don't know if they're still there. The friction at the start of P4 would be quite dicey if wet.
Added: 1989-11-01
