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The Odyssey - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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full crack rack to #3.5/#4 Friend, nuts, TCUs/Aliens
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

P1: start at edge of rock apron, head up to right-leaning crack/overlap to good stance at start of long vertical handcrack. P2: follow the wonderful crack until it fades, then move up & right to good ledge/stance. P3 (crux): move back up and left to re-emerging crack, follow it up past ancient welded Hexes and a bolt, exit left and up to good stance. P4: smear up no-pro ramp to good stance & pro. Keep going up as angle eases, belay where convenient in an eyebrow. P5/finish: scramble to top, descend via the Nose area rappel route (not the Nose route itself).

Submitted by: glockaroo on 2004-01-01
Views: 1185
Route ID: 46462

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clemsonscooby on 2011-07-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Epic

This route is amazing. P2 is probably one of the best at the Glass. The crux is exciting and intimidating, but so much fun. Doubles to #3 camalot with a #4 and tri-cams to white. Crux felt harder than Legendary.

Added: 2011-07-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2007-04-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars nice climb

I found the first pitch PG/r, and the crux pitch required aliens. a great route. Grade about right.

Added: 2009-10-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jamtoman on 2008-06-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great route, better finished with some light

Went up this early in the summer with my buddy Joey and finished the crux pitch with the torch burning. Joey cruised it in the dark. We spent the next four hours finishing, searching for the rap station, then swinging side to side all over the wall looking for anything to bail off, before hunting aimlessly for the top of the Nose and making it back to the base. Take lots of bigger stuff for the second pitch or be prepared to run it out...

Added: 2008-10-15

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: emilb on 2004-04-26 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Unless I was missing something the first pitch is very runout. I found a couple of good TCU placements about 20 feet up and nothing but crap after that to the belay.

Added: 2004-04-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: glockaroo on 1989-11-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Perhaps the finest multi-pitch route at the Glass. Every pitch is a classic. Start P1 a little left of where the NC guidebook says. This is really the start of Nuclear Bomb and goes at about 10a but has much better pro than the Odyssey's 5.9 start. P2 sports the truest handcrack at the Glass. Use tape gloves here cuz the crystals will shred the backs of your hands otherwise. Be ready for some off-fist moves as well. Years ago there was a pin & a bolt at the P2 belay which allowed easy retreat, but I don't know if they're still there. The friction at the start of P4 would be quite dicey if wet.

Added: 1989-11-01