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Airlie Gardens - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.56/5 Average Rating : 4.56 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (25)
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Rock
Standard NC Trad Rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.42/5
  Scenery 4.75/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

Starts left of Linn Cove. P1 straight up into the corner below the V crack split roof. Move out left under roof and up to good belay stance. P2 climbs up short corner up to the roof, traverse left, pull lip then to the top

Submitted by: cjstudent on 2004-05-20
Views: 1596
Route ID: 53022

25 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: twdexter on 2012-08-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A variety of climbing

I lead the first R pitch, my buddy lead the second. I thought I was getting the "heady' pitch, but after following the second pitch, I think he got it. Crazy exposure up there.

Added: 2012-08-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: csproul on 2012-05-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars great 5.9

1st pitch crux definitely harder than the 2nd pitch crux. Some choss and questionable gear getting up to the crux, but once you're there it protects very well. Grades seem so inconsistent at Ship. I thought this was harder than several of the 10's there and some of the 10's feel really soft.

Added: 2012-05-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2010-10-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great route

Lots of neat movement, exposed moves and full value for 5.9. Both pitches will get your heart rate up.

The beginning is pretty runout, but if you take the easy way (out right then head back toward the v-crack) it's not too bad. The direct start is a bit harder and you'll face some slightly harder unprotected moves that you CANNOT blow.

Two distinct cruxes, the first one kind of a two-parter that might be harder for shorter folks. Well protected but committing moves. Second crux is an intimidating traverse, that protects well if you either have reach, find odd feet, or can just hang around to get gear. Exit was the hardest part so be careful to make sure your last piece isn't so far away that you could swing back into the corner if you came off!

(SPOILER GEAR BETA: Crux 1 you'll want something like a green alien or blue master cam. Crux 2 takes midsized stuff great and a #4 C4 at the end, provided you can pause to place it)

Watch out for loose blocks just below the v-crack and at the first pitch belay area.

Added: 2010-10-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: tks on 2010-07-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars two great pitches

one of the best ever

Added: 2010-07-20

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: sf on 2010-05-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars +1 for an awesome route, transcending grade

-red point, roped solo (ground up)
-direct start
-watch out for a few loose blocks

Added: 2010-05-30

... Read all 25 ascent notes