Starts left of Linn Cove. P1 straight up into the corner below the V crack split roof. Move out left under roof and up to good belay stance. P2 climbs up short corner up to the roof, traverse left, pull lip then to the top
Submitted by: cjstudent on 2004-05-20
Route ID: 53022
1st pitch crux definitely harder than the 2nd pitch crux. Some choss and questionable gear getting up to the crux, but once you're there it protects very well. Grades seem so inconsistent at Ship. I thought this was harder than several of the 10's there and some of the 10's feel really soft.
Lots of neat movement, exposed moves and full value for 5.9. Both pitches will get your heart rate up.
The beginning is pretty runout, but if you take the easy way (out right then head back toward the v-crack) it's not too bad. The direct start is a bit harder and you'll face some slightly harder unprotected moves that you CANNOT blow.
Two distinct cruxes, the first one kind of a two-parter that might be harder for shorter folks. Well protected but committing moves. Second crux is an intimidating traverse, that protects well if you either have reach, find odd feet, or can just hang around to get gear. Exit was the hardest part so be careful to make sure your last piece isn't so far away that you could swing back into the corner if you came off!
(SPOILER GEAR BETA: Crux 1 you'll want something like a green alien or blue master cam. Crux 2 takes midsized stuff great and a #4 C4 at the end, provided you can pause to place it)
Watch out for loose blocks just below the v-crack and at the first pitch belay area.