| Safety Rating
great route, many possibilities, gear a tad thin in one section
My partner and I traded leads for the two showcase 8s at Ship (I got Hindu Kush and he led this). He ended up climbing up to the left of the vegetation at the bottom and traversing out right on a foot rail. From there he went straight up through a good vertical crack system until it petered out, a few feet left of the arete. Plenty of gear below and in that vertical crack and also good holds. From there he shot diagonally left towards the weakness in the roof left of the rap bolts. This section is the only part that made me at all nervous; the holds were suddenly not so shelf-like (slightly slopers about a half a finger deep) and they didn't take so much gear until near the roof where a big horizontal takes either a #2 or #3 BD C4. He managed to find a single small cam pocket in the middle but being a bit chicken I would have liked a little more just where the climbing gets thin. It's not bad, just one of those areas where I could easily imagine greasing off if a stiff breeze took me off guard. I found the roof section to have a minor "move" to get through, but nothing too daunting.
Looks like many route options are possible, with varying amounts of gear available. Some folks I spoke to said they meandered all over the face finding gear (esp if using double ropes), others found a good line with plenty of gear the whole way, and still others just blazed a trail through some 20 foot runouts.
Easy to build a belay up top by slinging some big boulder(s) to keep the rap station clear for others as this is the main way down (double ropes or use an intermediate station). We climbed it in a single pitch, used mostly mid-sized (.3-1.0) cams and nothing larger than a #3 C4. Doubles in the small sizes are nice. Climbing felt 5.7ish to me but I could see the exposure getting to folks not used to it.
I'm definitely going to come back and lead it, I just have to figure out which line I want. Recommended.