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Boardwalk - 5.8 popular

Average Rating = 4.48/5 Average Rating : 4.48 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (46)
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Full Trad Rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.55/5
  Rock Quality 4.55/5
  Scenery 4.73/5
  Fun Factor 4.73/5

Description:

An excellent route with good pro. The guide book shows two pitches but can be done as one long pitch. Double shuts at top to rap off. Steep and exposed with incredible views, highly recommended.

Submitted by: benfieldj on 2002-07-06
Views: 1893
Route ID: 20262

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46 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mattrichardson on 2010-08-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars exposure!

rained off on the first go while runout. nice view though

Added: 2010-09-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Ricola on 2010-07-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars one of my favs

wish it were taller

Added: 2010-07-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mjwestla on 2009-08-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars back for more

Came back for the lead. Partner lead a short easy first pitch up to the belay anchor (maybe part of the line for "buffalo nickel"?) and I set out from there, incidentally where the route becomes fun and it's general "boardwalk" style begins. The climbing never really gets too hard, just a little thin and exposed, and maybe a little runout if you aren't vigilent to find the rare placement in the center. Probably mostly 7 climbing but gets a grade bump for the airy and thin section which can be pretty heady.

I used a lot of gear as I was feeling a little nervous due to the exposure. Mostly small (.3 C4) to mid sized (#2 C4) cams and assorted nuts/tri-cams. Save a #2 as a bomber piece for the big horizontal after the runout.

I traversed out right to vertical crack, went up, then traversed back up and left toward the roof weakness. If you sling long through the turns the rope drag isn't a problem - but it can be serious if you don't. Going to have to come back and try the arete variation/staying on the right corner to the top.

Added: 2009-08-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clemsonscooby on 2009-07-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun and Airy

Much more laid back that Hindu Kush. Crux was easy and short. The traverse back left to belay is heady.

Added: 2009-07-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: mjwestla on 2009-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great route, many possibilities, gear a tad thin in one section

My partner and I traded leads for the two showcase 8s at Ship (I got Hindu Kush and he led this). He ended up climbing up to the left of the vegetation at the bottom and traversing out right on a foot rail. From there he went straight up through a good vertical crack system until it petered out, a few feet left of the arete. Plenty of gear below and in that vertical crack and also good holds. From there he shot diagonally left towards the weakness in the roof left of the rap bolts. This section is the only part that made me at all nervous; the holds were suddenly not so shelf-like (slightly slopers about a half a finger deep) and they didn't take so much gear until near the roof where a big horizontal takes either a #2 or #3 BD C4. He managed to find a single small cam pocket in the middle but being a bit chicken I would have liked a little more just where the climbing gets thin. It's not bad, just one of those areas where I could easily imagine greasing off if a stiff breeze took me off guard. I found the roof section to have a minor "move" to get through, but nothing too daunting.

Looks like many route options are possible, with varying amounts of gear available. Some folks I spoke to said they meandered all over the face finding gear (esp if using double ropes), others found a good line with plenty of gear the whole way, and still others just blazed a trail through some 20 foot runouts.

Easy to build a belay up top by slinging some big boulder(s) to keep the rap station clear for others as this is the main way down (double ropes or use an intermediate station). We climbed it in a single pitch, used mostly mid-sized (.3-1.0) cams and nothing larger than a #3 C4. Doubles in the small sizes are nice. Climbing felt 5.7ish to me but I could see the exposure getting to folks not used to it.

I'm definitely going to come back and lead it, I just have to figure out which line I want. Recommended.


Added: 2009-07-05

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