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Fire Point (5.9+R) - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (19)
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Rock
Trad
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.71/5
  Rock Quality 3.29/5
  Scenery 4.43/5
  Fun Factor 3.71/5

Description:

(pronounced feeray) A direct, slightly runout start to KB Capers

Submitted by: freeledgeledgy on 2006-03-29
Views: 862
Route ID: 53806

19 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2013-10-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Not bad

Definitely want to be solid but it's not overly difficult. The start is quite runout and requires a few not entirely trivial moves before you get your first, thankfully solid, piece. (gear beta spoiler: green alien + small nut, maybe brassie). Seemed a similar distance to first gear on Hindu Kush trad start. Puzzle out and pull a somewhat committing crux move and then navigate the choss. Going straight up from there makes you deal with some bad rock but if you traverse left a little around it the climbing is a good deal easier and less committing if still over dubious rock. I still got a couple of pieces that weren't too bad before the quality gear near the arete, just wouldn't have wanted to have tested them. The arete is just plain fun and pretty easy if you look for the good footholds.

A little above the arete is a bulge that is sort of cryptic. First time up I went right and zigged back left through a rather tenuous slabby section that seemed tricky (I now think it's part of Balti porter). This time I cut left onto the Boardwalk face to belay. Maybe you can pull straight through it but it looks more difficult and I didn't see any pro that would have been obvious before committing to the path.

Overall a more fun way to get to KB than the Boardwalk start. The boardwalk lower section is rather uninspired and climbs through a lot of the same choss. I don't really feel like that route gets underway until near where I stopped to belay for this route.

Added: 2013-10-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gogalac on 2011-09-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars feeray

PG13 and the best way to start KB Capers imho

Added: 2011-09-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clemsonscooby on 2011-07-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Scary

Scary but easy. Nut protects crux very well. Once you are above the crux there is a lot of fragile rock with huge fall potential, maybe even ground fall if you blow the nut. Move out the arete is really fun and well protected.

Added: 2011-07-05

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Red Point Red Point ascent by: sf on 2011-05-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2011-05-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: tlannin on 2007-09-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Wish I had led this one

We top-roped since the crux looked too run out and we weren't eager to take a grounder this day. We few up the route as a result and it would be nice to lead now.

Added: 2011-01-09

... Read all 19 ascent notes