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Hindu Kush - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (28)
Rock
Standard NC Trad Rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.17/5
  Scenery 4.67/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

The climb has two starts, one to the right by a tree (5.8) and one about 20 feet left of the tree that runs up bolts (5.9). First pitch runs to shuts after the mystery ledge move. Rest of climb can be done as one or two pitches, needing natural anchors at the belays. Excellent route with great pro. Descent: rap down Boardwalk

Submitted by: cjstudent on 2004-04-28
Views: 461
Route ID: 4028

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28 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mjwestla on 2009-08-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars round 2

Was planning on hitting boardwalk but there was a line so I came back to tackle this route via the trad start. I guess this is an onsight since I took an alternate route and it definitely felt pretty full credit, as that section is spooky and very different from the rest of the route. Thin and runout in places with almost all tiny dubious gear, it was pretty heady. I used mostly tiny TCUs and the one good sized cam I got in about 25' up was in a hollow sounding pocket that didn't inspire much confidence. Some sorta tricky moves (tricky in that it was on lead over small gear on hollow flakes) make this a totally different experience than the "sport" variation. I found the bolt version to be quite a bit easier, shorter, and significantly less scary. I wouldn't call it PG13, but maybe something a little more than G...

Also, although I'm pretty comfortable with the last move up onto the platform near the bolts I heard about two folks falling right at that spot that weekend, so be aware it might be a little more difficult than expected. At least there is bomber gear to be had there!

Added: 2009-08-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clemsonscooby on 2009-07-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Lots of variety

This 5.8 probably has the most variety out of all the 5.8's at Ship. Start of P1 is a bit runout and the same with P2 before you pull around the roof. Did this in two pitches from the bolts.

Added: 2009-07-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2009-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun and varied

Did it in 3 pitches due to rope drag, pretty much as shown in the NC Selected Climbs guide (2nd belay at the set of boulders near the top). Went up the bolted 9 start: kinda thin, but fun. Used a small nut low on the flake between bolts but that flake is pretty weak... wouldn't want to test it! Be sure to protect immediately above the 2nd bolt for your followers as the possible pendulum makes that move scarier for followers than leaders. That move also seemed harder for short folks but it's easy to grab the draw and pull through. The final 1st pitch move to the belay ledge on the "diving board" was just awkward, but didn't seem too hard.

The traverse out to the arete and up near the start of the 2nd pitch was my favorite part. Exposed with your tail hanging out in the wind! After that there are a few more good moves here and there but rope drag became awful after I started moving back around toward the left. Wrapping the rope around the arete was not cool. I think it might have been better to set a 2nd pitch belay a bit sooner (contrary to the guide) which would also create a longer 3rd pitch.

Felt more comfortable on this than Boardwalk, perhaps b/c it's more varied and breaks up into shorter segments. Also this takes gear well, except for a short run out over some easy stuff in the middle of pitch 2. Felt mostly about like a Moore's 5.6, but maybe with a bit more exposure. Probably the move up onto the diving board is what causes it to be considered an 8.


Added: 2009-07-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bigredscowboy on 2009-03-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars .

bolted alternate start.

Added: 2009-03-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: boglins on 2008-09-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun warmup

great first pitch, with a funky beached whale finish

Added: 2009-02-04

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