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K.B. Capers - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.31/5 Average Rating : 4.31 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (24)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.25/5
  Rock Quality 4.62/5
  Scenery 4.44/5
  Fun Factor 4.62/5

Description:

Direct start is 5.9R, route is just route of Boardwalk. 2 pitches, crux is at the roofy dihedral on 2nd pitch.

Submitted by: rrradam on 2003-09-23
Views: 1291
Route ID: 40808

24 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: freddiehutch on 2012-05-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun climbing, good gear, not very scary

This is another fun route at shiprock. Good gear, good moves and tons of hot chicks. Minus the hot chicks. Recommended.

Added: 2012-05-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clemsonscooby on 2011-07-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good

Short one move wonder with great position and exposure.

Added: 2011-07-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mjwestla on 2010-10-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars P2

Came back to lead P2 - good stuff. The crux move is a little awkward but if you are patient felt a bit easy for 10a. Not burly, just funky. Could be a 9 somewhere else maybe. Can protect just over it with a very small cam.

Partner went up Hindu Kush P1 and kept going, moving up and left to reach the KB gear belay shelf. Not too bad, although before the slabby bit, he moved slightly left and avoided the corner, a move that turned out to be significantly easier and something I'd recommend if you go that way.

Added: 2010-10-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2010-07-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars onsight P1, followed P2

Kind of manky at the start but the arete moves are stimulating and take good pro. Got a little lost after pulling the arete and wandered way right onto what I suspect is Balti Porter. Back cleaned a couple pieces and found my way to the correct belay (right next to boardwalk). I guess it would make more sense to try to go straight up over the bulge directly over the arete (looks intimidating though) or dodge left onto the edge of boardwalk.

P2 pretty easy till the roof, which requires a funky high step/layback/stemming move. Upper section crux beta: very small cam (black alien) can protect the move but there is a good horizontal for handsized gear below the roof. Casual after you pull the "move".

Will be heading back for the RP on P2 next time I'm in the area for sure.

Added: 2010-07-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: sf on 2010-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars I always seem to pause at the crux.

-red point, roped solo (ground up)
-one pitch

Added: 2010-05-30

... Read all 24 ascent notes