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Linn Cove Lullaby - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.12/5 Average Rating : 4.12 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (30)
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Full Trad Rack. This route Takes a good range of gear. Take runners.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.43/5
  Rock Quality 4.71/5
  Scenery 4.57/5
  Fun Factor 4.71/5

Description:

P1.Start right of Airlie Gardens. This pitch can have bad rope drag. Climb up easy terrain. Traverse left to corner. Up and back right to fixed belay. P2: Slabby face under a roof with bolt protection. Pull through overhang on jugs. Short Pitch.

Submitted by: thorne on 2006-05-10
Views: 1204
Route ID: 38081

30 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: twdexter on 2012-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Glad I looked at the topo

I tend to route-find myself into bad situations, so this time I looked at the topo before I tied in. I'm glad I did. There are so many features that one could easily get off route pretty quick. Gear down low is a little scarce, but only adds to the excitement that's coming.

Added: 2012-08-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: freddiehutch on 2012-04-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars ship rock classic

Always a good one, even when it's a little moist. The crux was easily 13d with the intermediate crimper dripping wet. So this was my first 13d. Really, good stuff, highly recommended. It looks like some folks do it as one pitch, but I had trouble with drag at the first belay with not much gear. If you put a 15' sling on the piece in the corner you'd cut down on drag.

Added: 2012-05-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
Flash Flash ascent by: mjwestla on 2010-07-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First 10a w/o an on-route preview :) Got some crux beta online though!

On P1, I suspect going up the Airlie Gardens start might be more appealing, since it's more direct. I had some crazy zig zag action getting to the corner - which might have been worse if there was a ton of pro available down low. Mostly easy but kind of run out - watch out for rotten rock. I thought moving up out of the corner/off the slab was kind of challenging and wasn't thrilled with my gear (a purple master cam). Below that I had a nut behind a loosely attached rock. Next piece was below the slab :( The pro got better from there but the business was not over; there are several non-trivial moves getting from that corner to the anchor. For me (5'8") once I found the right sequence and holds the crux on P2 seemed pretty easy actually, if a little reachy. I didn't do the move anything like what is in the guidebook photos of the route. Great rest stance just over it too. Zero rope drag even leaving the sling short on the bolt. The "steep" stuff above there is on mostly giant jugs, felt quite easy, takes gear well, and is over in just a few moves.

Added: 2010-07-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: clemsonscooby on 2010-06-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic

Great protection and great climbing. Lots of exposure in a beautiful setting. This route epitomizes Ship Rock.

Added: 2010-06-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tks on 2010-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars pretty good

nice steep crux

Added: 2010-06-01

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