Climb ramp to obvious rising traverse. Turn the lip and follow the prominent crack to an arbitrary set of anchors below a large roof. 2nd Pitch(11a): Clip an anchor and place micro cams under the roof and bust it out a few moves left, pull up on the crimps(crux), and make for the 5.8 handcrack hat leads to the trees.
New Anchors near the top will take you to the bottom (double rope rappel).
Submitted by: williamc on 2008-09-27
Route ID: 38083
Fun route. Onsight of P1 but hung at anchors trying to figure out how to start P2. The anchors at the top of P1 should be removed and placed after what is now the P2 crux if I may say so myself. Belaying at them resulted in a hanging belay just feet below the top and a bit of confusion. You actually have to downclimb a move or two to regain the route. Then you have to climb through mud and vegetation to reach the summit and rappel - makes no sense.
The way to do this route and how I plan on doing it next time is as one long pitch. Mind your runners and rope drag and this could be one bombastic pitch with a sweet ass ending.