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Paradise Alley - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.17/5 Average Rating : 4.17 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
Rock
Standard rack. # 4 camelot could be usefull.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.75/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.25/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Classic crack! Crack technique is usefull or it will feel hard. There are many variations for the upper pitches.

Submitted by: goober on 2005-10-31
Views: 293
Route ID: 11800

9 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 9 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: csproul on 2008-05-26 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars hard for 5.8

I had just got done climbing two 5.9's on Shortoff (Construction Job and Dopey Duck) and I thought this was harder. Maybe easier with better stemming technique rather than trying to layback. Had to hang at crux. UPper pitches are a little blocky and discontinuous.

Added: 2008-05-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: freeledgeledgy on 2008-01-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2008-01-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2007-07-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars An excellent gem hidden in NC

Wow what a good climb and so unexpected. The first pitch corner is clean as a whistle and protects beautifully. I agree with goober it will feel harder than 5.8 if your jamming/laybacking technique isn't good; nothing harder than a 5.8 handjam to get through the crux. Second pitch has an awesome and exposed arete that is mentally difficult but physically not bad. The best part is the surprise when you get to the "top".

Added: 2007-07-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: thorne on 2005-10-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun route

First pitch is 5.8++

Added: 2007-03-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: williamc on 2005-12-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Paradise alley

hard for 5.8

Added: 2007-01-15

... Read all 9 ascent notes