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Bookends - 5.6

Average Rating = 3.80/5 Average Rating : 3.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 12
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock (Trad)
G
1
Cams, nuts, rap anchors
125
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.80/5
  Rock Quality 3.60/5
  Scenery 3.20/5
  Fun Factor 4.40/5

Description:

The route starts below a left facing corner and follows the inside of the corner up to a set of double bolts. The climbing is a little stiff but quite fun. There are ample opportunities to place gear along the way. At the end of the corner, climb the face up to the anchors. Clip into the anchors and head straight up another short, steep wall to the top of the rock and belay using a tree. The route can be ended at the dual anchors.

Descent Options:

Rappel from the dual anchors if not climbing the route to the top or if finishing the route, rap off of a tree down to the anchors and finish rappelling using the anchors. A 50M rope will touch the ground from the anchors.

Submitted by: johnnyb336 on 2011-09-10
Views: 814
Route ID: 109861

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5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: bkplmmns on 2015-05-14 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Trad Lead

Fun Climb.

Anchors are at the top of Bookends, and you can end the climb there. The climb, up to the anchors, has numerous protection options.

However, you can top out by climbing straight up, beyond the anchors, or traverse to the left to a small tree and up.

If you go straight up, beyond the anchors, it looks like there aren't any protection opportunities. If you traverse left and up, then you have a small ledge with a tree to wrap a runner and a crack for a small stopper. Then you can head up the wall to top out -- there are no protection opportunities on the wall though.

I would rank the first pitch a G and the second pitch a PG to a PG-13.

Both pitches can be completed with a 60 meter rope. I am not sure if one 60 meter rope will reach the ground from the very top for a abseil though. We abseiled down to the anchors, restrung the rope through the anchors and then abseiled down from there.

Added: 2015-05-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Evandoyer on 2015-05-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars 3rd time's a charm

I tried to lead this twice in the '90s, and finally nailed it after a long incidental break due to job relocation. Great views from the top.

Added: 2015-05-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Frstavish on 2012-07-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars 5.6?

A great route I come back once a year to climb it. Every time I question the 5.6 rating. There are a few spots that feel more like 5.7. Watch out for loose rocks and bees.

Added: 2012-07-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-10-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Just Showing Another Climbing Partner the Routes

I brought my regular climbing partner here for the first time and this was our first route. It will accept plenty of pro and is a very fun climb. I did notice that at the top of the corner where it turns to mostly slab, there is a loose rock that people have been using for a hold. Be very careful, I barely touched it and it moved. Do not use it for a hold! I could probably climb this route a dozen times and still enjoy it.

Added: 2011-10-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-08-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Highly Recommended Lead

This route is probably more deserving of a 5.7 rating, it is a little stiff for a 5.6. The climb was quite exciting but not for beginners. I continued past the anchors to the very top of the rock face. I was able to rap off of a tree back down to the bolts. There are steel quicklinks installed on the anchors that I used to rappel. My 50M rope was long enough to reach the ground.

Added: 2011-09-10