Ample opportunities for placing trad gear - nuts, cams, slings, etc.
Start at the obvious left facing corner that arches up and to the left. Follow the crack formed by the corner to its left end and go straight up on some nice holds. It may seem a little heady for a 5.2 but the holds are great and protection easy to place. Continue slightly left towards a large right facing block. There will be some small trees to the right. Stay between the block and trees. Head straight up to a larger tree at the end of the exposed rock and belay. The walk-off trail is beside the belay tree.
Best to walk-off on the trail to the left.
Submitted by: johnnyb336 on 2011-09-06
Route ID: 109831
Fun, but dirty, climb. I disagree that protection placements are numerous. Plus, most placements are dirty placements, with a high potential for popping. However, this climb is not vertical, and is, therefore, a good first trad lead. I also disagree with the 5.2 grade. This climb is at least a 5.3 -- potentially a 5.4.
I was doing a little exploring (waterfall hunting) in the area and decided to spend two days climbing here. It was mostly due to the fact that my climbing partner likes easier climbs but I actually enjoyed myself. I only had route names and a simple map to go by so I followed what looked like the most obvious line. Many of the routes were probably a grade higher than listed. This route is a nice little warm-up that can be climbed very quickly. I wrote the route descrition above, so it fairly well sums up the line I took.