The route has the same start as Syringe and ends up connecting to Scrambled Brains. The route can be followed by starting two different ways. Just right of the Wasp Flake crack there is a large ledge a short distance off of the ground. Climb under the left edge of the ledge, around a right facing corner, until you can stand on the ledge. Climb up steep rock from the left side of the ledge and traverse left, just above an overhang. Go about ten feet and begin climbing up. There is a grassy ledge above you, climb just to the left of it and work your way over to Scrambled Brains. The second method is a little more exciting and reguires climbing through the overhang that is to the left of the ledge. The overhang has a dark color to it and has a crack in it. Climb straight up from the ground until under the overhang. Reach up into the cracks in the overhang for some excellent jugs and pull yourself up to more level rock. Then, finish the route exactly the same as previously mentioned. It is much easier than it looks.
Walk off on descent trail to the left or rappel from a tree.
Submitted by: johnnyb336 on 2011-10-10
Route ID: 110031
Yah, I had a spot of trouble on the overhang here. I've had two lead falls on it, but still a great climb. I have actually done both the roof and the "easy out" to the left next to Scrambled Brains, and enjoy the face below the roof. Great pro.
I chose to climb through the overhang for this route since I had just used the ledge method to climb Syringe. I walked about five or ten feet right of the start of Wasp Flake and climbed straight up to a section of rock that was darker than the surrounding rock and is slightly overhung. I was able to place a couple of pieces of pro in the cracks and pockets in the overhang above my head. I fumbled around and found some awesome jug holds in the overhang. I just held on and pulled myself to the top of the steep rock. I made a slight left traverse and headed up along the left edge of some heavy grass and bushes. Be careful here as the vegetation can cause you to lose your footing. I headed on up to the top and belayed from a tree. I lowered my partner when he finished the route and let him pull the rope down to get it ready for the next route while I walked to a fixed rappel line we had set earlier.