Like bushes and rotten rock? Do this route. Follow the left arching dihedral to a comfy belay under a licheny and bushy face. Hack your way through bushes, and then up a short, rotten, overhanging corner. Finagle a rest after exiting the corner, then continue up and right through the clean face to the top. This face has the only decent climbing on the last pitch.
Submitted by: j_ung on 2003-12-04
Route ID: 45056
Very nice first pitch, great warm up. Second pitch has two or three interesting moves, well protected. Third pitch is strenuous, overhung, and in your face. Ample pro before and after crux. I topped out, walked ten feet straight up the cliff, and slung a tree for an anchor. Don't let the firs two remarks below scare you off.
Good route, don't believe the comments others have made
I don't know why this route has got a bad reputation. The first pitch is fun 5.7 corner climbing capped by a roof and a 20 foot traverse left that may be considered a little rotten. The second 5.8 pitch should be tied in with the last 5.9 pitch to avoid the intermediate belay which is easily accomplished with runners. The last pitch is a cool exposed and overhanging crack that couldn't be easier to protect with standard nuts and cams. Stop whining and start climbing; this is NC not Yosemite Valley!
First pitch: pretty standard WNC 5.7 face climbing with great pro. Second pitch: Unsatisfying 5.8 moves to a hanging belay. No good placements (not with standard gear) for an anchor at the belay; you're limited to slinging a large flake. Third pitch: SCARY 5.9 overhung crack. Nice. This would make the climb, IF THERE WERE ANCHORS AT THE TOP. Ok, no, I don't need bolts...but at least give me a good slot or some blocks to build a trad anchor! Any way you slice it, the top is bleak and you will have to go far, far right to find acceptable anchor placements.