Hike up main trail from parking lot, take the first right and hike about 300 feet and head up to the left, scramble up some 3rd class terrain into the gulley. U should be able to see the first bolts from the ground. Look for a wet gully just beyond Mourning Maiden.
Scramble up a 3rd class slab to get to the bottom of the climb. 1st pitch (40') has 5 bolts with a bolted belay station - 2nd pitch (50') has 4 bolts with natural anchor at the top. You can walk off the top or rappell down.
Submitted by: bumblie on 2003-11-26
Route ID: 44793
We have always joked that the 3rd approach is harder than the climb, and often rope it up because of the sloped ground at the base and the risk of a tumble even on a minor slip. It is also usually damp.
The climb is a good trainer for lead. When teaching other people, I usually get them to use the bolts the first time (not as sketchy as everyone else seems to feel), and then trad the second time with bolts as a fall-back. The transition from the deep shelf onto the upper buttress in the middle of the 2nd pitch is the best part of the climb.
The scramble up to the start was more dicey than the climb. Still have a hard time believing that we trusted those bolts, backed up the belay with a cam. Lead both sort pitches. Great climb to teach multi pitch to a young follower.
If coming to the South End just for this, it's probably not worth the hike. Old rusty hangers all the way including 2 for a 1st pitch end. I ran the two together. Ultimately rapped off tree from top. 3rd class approach was more interesting than climb..
Did my first lead on this route today! True, none of the moves are terribly difficult. In fact, climbing the 3rd class ledge to get to the climb is just as hairy. The old bolts did make it sketchy. Went ahead and did it all in one pitch.