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Two Pitch - 5.4

Average Rating = 3.33/5 Average Rating : 3.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (14)
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Rock
Sport/Trad
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.12/5
  Scenery 4.25/5
  Fun Factor 3.38/5

Description:

Hike up main trail from parking lot, take the first right and hike about 300 feet and head up to the left, scramble up some 3rd class terrain into the gulley. U should be able to see the first bolts from the ground. Look for a wet gully just beyond Mourning Maiden. Scramble up a 3rd class slab to get to the bottom of the climb. 1st pitch (40') has 5 bolts with a bolted belay station - 2nd pitch (50') has 4 bolts with natural anchor at the top. You can walk off the top or rappell down.

Submitted by: bumblie on 2003-11-26
Views: 1260
Route ID: 44793

14 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Evandoyer on 2013-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good Training Climb

We have always joked that the 3rd approach is harder than the climb, and often rope it up because of the sloped ground at the base and the risk of a tumble even on a minor slip. It is also usually damp.

The climb is a good trainer for lead. When teaching other people, I usually get them to use the bolts the first time (not as sketchy as everyone else seems to feel), and then trad the second time with bolts as a fall-back. The transition from the deep shelf onto the upper buttress in the middle of the 2nd pitch is the best part of the climb.

Added: 2014-06-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: oTrain on 2012-03-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars I can't believe that I trusted those bolts!

The scramble up to the start was more dicey than the climb. Still have a hard time believing that we trusted those bolts, backed up the belay with a cam. Lead both sort pitches. Great climb to teach multi pitch to a young follower.

Added: 2012-04-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: amy.glenn on 2011-06-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Not worth the approach

Fun little route, but it's definately not worth the hike up. Bolts are pretty old and rusty.

Added: 2011-06-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jsaunders on 2011-06-11 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Not worth the hike..

If coming to the South End just for this, it's probably not worth the hike. Old rusty hangers all the way including 2 for a 1st pitch end. I ran the two together. Ultimately rapped off tree from top. 3rd class approach was more interesting than climb..

Added: 2011-06-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: dand100 on 2011-02-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First Lead Ever!

Did my first lead on this route today! True, none of the moves are terribly difficult. In fact, climbing the 3rd class ledge to get to the climb is just as hairy.
The old bolts did make it sketchy. Went ahead and did it all in one pitch.

Added: 2011-02-22

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