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Little Miss Dangerous - 5.12a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
R
8
bolts cams nuts
900
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

I did the first three pitches, and then finished on the matrix. The matrix is just 10 feet left at the ledge, and the little miss roof looks like a horror. Follow the crack right. Back up the belay bolt with gear. Clip, and aid a few moves left. Place a cam, and commit to a long 5.10 run left to the first bolt. You are now on. Follow the bolts, about 160 ft, to the belay. The third pitch is more dangerous. A few bolts (easy to miss) and a few gear placements. I led every hard pitch, and feel confident in saying that each has 5.10 climbing where one cannot fall. The barrier pitch has obligatory, insecure 11+ (safe fall). On the third pitch, one must do a 5.10 mantle 50 ft out before clipping. High on the Matrix--second to the last pitch??--thank god for that hole. The last bit of 5.11 is obligatory, with no fall moves before the clip. The quality of the climbing is fantastic. Kind of a twisted ugly cousin version of the overhanging 5.10 pitches high on the west face of El Cap. I didn't break a single hold, and plan to go back at the first opportunity. After-all, the kids are grown, and the wife no longer has use for me.

Descent Options:

walk

Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2008-11-11
Views: 726
Route ID: 96992

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: satch on 1995-11-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars tough one

several sustained, hard pitches

Added: 2011-11-10