I did the first three pitches, and then finished on the matrix. The matrix is just 10 feet left at the ledge, and the little miss roof looks like a horror.
Follow the crack right. Back up the belay bolt with gear. Clip, and aid a few moves left. Place a cam, and commit to a long 5.10 run left to the first bolt. You are now on. Follow the bolts, about 160 ft, to the belay. The third pitch is more dangerous. A few bolts (easy to miss) and a few gear placements.
I led every hard pitch, and feel confident in saying that each has 5.10 climbing where one cannot fall. The barrier pitch has obligatory, insecure 11+ (safe fall). On the third pitch, one must do a 5.10 mantle 50 ft out before clipping. High on the Matrix--second to the last pitch??--thank god for that hole. The last bit of 5.11 is obligatory, with no fall moves before the clip.
The quality of the climbing is fantastic. Kind of a twisted ugly cousin version of the overhanging 5.10 pitches high on the west face of El Cap. I didn't break a single hold, and plan to go back at the first opportunity. After-all, the kids are grown, and the wife no longer has use for me.
Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2008-11-11
Route ID: 96992