Routes : North America : United States : North Carolina : Western : Whiteside Mountain : Main Wall : Little Miss Dangerous
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Little Miss Dangerous - 5.12a
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Rock (Trad)
R
8
bolts cams nuts
900
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Description:
I did the first three pitches, and then finished on the matrix. The matrix is just 10 feet left at the ledge, and the little miss roof looks like a horror. Follow the crack right. Back up the belay bolt with gear. Clip, and aid a few moves left. Place a cam, and commit to a long 5.10 run left to the first bolt. You are now on. Follow the bolts, about 160 ft, to the belay. The third pitch is more dangerous. A few bolts (easy to miss) and a few gear placements. I led every hard pitch, and feel confident in saying that each has 5.10 climbing where one cannot fall. The barrier pitch has obligatory, insecure 11+ (safe fall). On the third pitch, one must do a 5.10 mantle 50 ft out before clipping. High on the Matrix--second to the last pitch??--thank god for that hole. The last bit of 5.11 is obligatory, with no fall moves before the clip. The quality of the climbing is fantastic. Kind of a twisted ugly cousin version of the overhanging 5.10 pitches high on the west face of El Cap. I didn't break a single hold, and plan to go back at the first opportunity. After-all, the kids are grown, and the wife no longer has use for me.Descent Options:
walk
Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2008-11-11
Views: 88
Route ID: 96992
