Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
Bolts, a few cams, and a small nut or two.
Better protected than most other routes on Whitesides, but dont worry, you just substitute those long runouts for some hard and pumpy climbing. I was very impressed with this route, definitely a must do.
Submitted by: nrvna963 on 2004-11-08
Last Modified: 2010-02-03
Route ID: 61588
First pitch is committing right off the deck. (It is possible to traverse in to the second pitch) My partner used a #4 to protect a tenuous clip before the roof bolder problem. After that is a long run to anchors. Bring small cams to make this PG instead of 5.9 X. The second pitch is committing and relatively safe. A red camalot is needed. Third pitch is about 180 ft and requires some gear. Fourth pitch is an easy solo which can be protected by a finger size piece. Fifth pitch starts the show. Begin in an easy corner with a green alien. A few awkward moves get you to a platfrom (yellow alien) with a look at the traverse bolts right. Again, committing moves required climbing right. Pull a small roof, and do much easier moves back left to a belay. Above, the route traverses left through a roof and to a short crux (5.12) Above this, the route stays really overhanging and hard with most moves 5.11 to occasional good holds and one blank section. The last pitch heads straight up to and easy but committing traverse back right. Above are some hard moves to a blank section. This might go free out right at a moderate grade. The last pitch is 5.7 by the guide. When we did it, it was wet and felt much more like 5.10 R. Link this to the last easy pitch.