Skip to Content

Traditions - 5.11c

Average Rating = 4.71/5 Average Rating : 4.71 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
Such as it is.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.83/5
  Rock Quality 4.17/5
  Scenery 4.83/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

~100' left of the OR under a small roof ~40' up with low bolt. Crux pitch is very runout and scary after bolt ladder, although if you pulled the crux you should be able to do the runout.

Submitted by: jcclimbs on 2003-12-02
Views: 1512
Route ID: 45034

9 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 9 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: barwatt on 2011-11-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Traditions

Pitch 1 is a rope stretcher and a little runout in sections, but all the hard moves have protection. Pitch 2 is sweeeeet, but too short. Belay is also confusing after pitch 2. I just stop at the ledge with a bolt where you traverse right for pitch three and throw in two cams. Pitch three and four are uneventful. Crux pitch 5 is way overbolted, but fun and quite a thinker to decipher the crux moves. The traverse after pitch 5 is a pain when combining it with pitch 6, but that is the only logical way to climb it in my opinion. I am going to try the direct finish off pitch 5 next time as recommended in an earlier post.

Added: 2011-11-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: satch on 1994-09-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great route

with my son, Chris. He led the harder pitches.

Added: 2011-11-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: A-Bowl on 2010-11-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Beautiful Wall.... and route.

Was a super cold day on the shady hike in... surprisingly the wall was shirts off and the climbing was great.... sporty texture and great holds. Unusual bolting... 1st pitch run out and after that pretty much over bolted. The crux was hard but good rests before and after. Good times... skipped bolts on the upper parts on accident. Good times

Added: 2011-04-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating R
Red Point Red Point ascent by: sf on 2010-10-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Good but certainly dangerous

Done in six pitches; 70m rope recommended... Definitely take the direct line after the crux pitch all the way to the tree ledge.

Added: 2010-10-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 2007-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars hangdog

I aided one move on the crux pitch. Several hard areas here.
I found the first pitch scary--5.8X. After that, a bit runout after the crux, but not bad.

Added: 2008-03-08

... Read all 9 ascent notes