I only did the first 4 pitches before it started to rain. Besides, the 5th pitch dihedral would take a set of double cams I didn't have.
After getting beta from Arno, I set out to rope solo this behemoth. 1st pitch 8 bolts/#2 camalot, green red alien, #4 camalot (essential). 2nd pitch is all bolted. Thin hard 5.11. 3rd pitch bolted, last portion, bold and very thin 11+. A yellow alien is nice. 4th pitch traverse, single set of cams and 4 bolts. These 4 pitches were fabulous, with long clean fall potential. I'll return with a partner to do the rest.
walk off, or rappel route. I chose the toughest place to rappel from-top of pitch 4. Tramming skills necessary
Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2009-01-04
Route ID: 97555
My bail biner on the third pitch was still there. Probably did the second ascent after Arno. A decent route. The 4th traverse pitch is great but dirty. the fifth tradland pitch is a bear. Really overhanging with fiddly gear that talks back when you jerk it. I french freed part. The upper pitches are a bit crusty. It is probably possible to pull through at about 11 C A1. The top part of the fifth pitch is an aid ladder (kind of--one chopped bolt.) The last pitch is up and right and through some laurel and briar. The 5.5 X section should not cause concern