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24. Nightmares Right Side - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock
2 fixed rings
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 1.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 2.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

Start on the ramping wall below the right side of the wall. Climb the right side of the wall near the outside corner ending up on Broadway Ledge, 20 ft. CAUTION: Avoid the loose rock section near the cliff top

Submitted by: delphyne on 2003-07-22
Views: 606
Route ID: 14483

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Achilleus30 on 2008-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Extremely Sketchy Second Bolt Clip

If you manage to clip the second bolt without falling off backwards onto a jagged pile of rocks below, then the rest of the route is very safe, although far from easy. The crux is a very precise sequence of moves beginning with a small step-through, and ending with your right hand on a small crimp, and your left hand on a small pinch. Then you have to almost smear your right foot, and trust your hands enough to remove your left foot from the hold which has up to this point been supporting 80% of your weight. If you can smear that right foot, and move up your left hand off the pinch, you can grab the wall slightly again with your left hand before throwing it up to the bomber ledge above. After that it's beyond easy. More moves may be required for short people to pull the crux Lena Chita.

Added: 2008-06-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: jinn on 2003-09-07 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2003-09-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stonefox on 2003-09-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2003-09-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: phlsphr on 2003-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2003-09-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: rockrat512 on 2003-08-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2003-08-01