| Safety Rating
real first ascent (no rope)
witnessed by tom austin...did it a lot afterward. tom had already gone up the crack to the left and then out onto the face and up, i just added the cool start and hard pull up to the flake. sept 2012 (34 years after) update - i thought i would say a bit more about this favorite of mine. i was bouldering with tom, who had owned chandler for years. he left for colorado springs soon after and hung out with some of the great ones (peter gallagher, muff, greg stephens, etc.). we shunned ropes, although a fall in this area was especially heinous as the tulsa county folks had come through and cut all of the trees down. they left sharp stakes sticking up about 2 feet high. i thought i would try a wild start and soon cranked and threw for the flake. once i got there i wobbled my way to the top. believe it or not but it was slick even then. i did the climb literally hundreds of times after and probably contributed to its slickness. it was part of my warm up (3D, ordeal, squirrel hole, tree roof). felt so sad when i saw that the top 2 feet had fell off. i tried to find a direct start for years (no edge) but couldn't ever figure it out. btw, this climb is way harder than 11a!!! if you actually encountered this on the lead - oh man!!!