Routes : North America : United States : Oklahoma : Southwest : Baldy Peak-Quartz Mt : Snake's Head - S Wall : Moosehead ****
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Moosehead **** - 5.10d
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Rock
Up to #2 camalot
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Description:
This sweet crack begins on the lower section of the Snake's Head formation, on the vertical portion of the wall. It traverses diagonally for about 40', then abruptly heads up and over to the slab. **** Route, although some debate has gone on concerning bolting the beginning of the route, as your first piece isn't accessible for a ways up -- if yer skeered, place a 4 Camalot on Snake Head Dihedral above where you start, then have your belayer pull it when you slot your first placement. F.A. Jon Frank, Jimmy Ratzlaff (1979)
Submitted by: berkly on 2006-02-13
Views: 137
Route ID: 11294
3 Ascents Recorded
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| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | R |
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| Rock Quality |  |
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Second ascent by:
good skunky beer
moosehead, that is - and the route is even better! Nice bouldery start, to sweet jams and a viciously rough crack. Will definitely be taping up next and subsequent goes. This time I followed up Sean, and it took me several shots to figure out a sequence at the start. Good stuff. Redpoint not far off.
Added: 2007-11-07
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Red Point ascent by:
Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2006-08-19
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Top Rope ascent by:
Ascent Note
Wow excellent climb. Start is a balancy boulder problem that looks improbable at first, but once you try it, you will realize what must be done. The angle of the wall is slightly overhung, but you dont realize it until your pumped out of your head trying to lieback the crack. After the bp start, traverse up right following a crack which ranges from small hands to fingers. There are good jams to be had, but not enough time to rest on them. KEEP MOVING. Battle your way up into the pod for gear and shake out. Lieback the flake to turn the lip and into an absolutely sublime SPLITTER hand crack. Jams start small and get perfect. Superb line, classic, one of the best at quartz etc...etc...
Added: 2006-02-13
