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3-Bolt - 5.7

Average Rating = 4.22/5 Average Rating : 4.22 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (14)
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Rock
Strangely enough, gear + several bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.71/5
  Rock Quality 4.29/5
  Scenery 4.14/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

First pitch climbed by Terry Andrews and Larry Osborn, 1978. Terry had to drop the rope and wait for Larry to climb up over him and lower a rope after he went farther up the dihedral than the belay spot and got scared. Second pitch climbed by Terry Andrews and Greg Schooley 1979. Starts with a short layback on a huge rough flake; rest of pitch is a big traverse under a short "roof" (relative to lowish-angle slab) with bomber feet to reach a two bolt belay (belay was originally composed of three bolts hence the name). Big and small cams (no medium). 2nd pitch starts with a scary hard move up into the bulge and then reach right for a jug and a pull over the overhang to a great splitter crack. At top of crack go right and up, clipping one bolt on the way. Entire route done without bolts originally, bolts were added after the first ascent.

Submitted by: okieterry on 2006-01-16
Views: 1106
Route ID: 62994

14 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 14 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: theresister on 2012-03-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Only got to lead the first pitch but loved the route

Very varied climbing. Wish the crack was 100 feet longer. :)

Added: 2012-03-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: willwill on 2010-11-06 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars pretty good

Climbed it in one pitch. I wish the hand crack section was a lot longer.

Added: 2010-11-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mydogscout on 2009-12-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars a

A

Added: 2009-12-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: JohnCook on 2008-03-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Second

Seconded Elie on this. What a fun route, with a bit of every type of climbing, nearly. Will do this again and again. I will apologise if I do this so many times it becomes polished!

Added: 2008-03-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: JohnCook on 2007-11-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Led

A great 5.7 route. The first pitch to the stance is a great start, but only 5.6. The move of the stance is a good 5.7. Once the 5.6 super jam crack is gained the route continues at no more than 5.6 to a great place to view the surrounding countryside. Rappel needs 2 ropes or a 70 metre rope to avoid downclimbing the last 10 ft like we did.

Added: 2007-11-18

... Read all 14 ascent notes