First pitch climbed by Terry Andrews and Larry Osborn, 1978. Terry had to drop the rope and wait for Larry to climb up over him and lower a rope after he went farther up the dihedral than the belay spot and got scared. Second pitch climbed by Terry Andrews and Greg Schooley 1979. Starts with a short layback on a huge rough flake; rest of pitch is a big traverse under a short "roof" (relative to lowish-angle slab) with bomber feet to reach a two bolt belay (belay was originally composed of three bolts hence the name). Big and small cams (no medium). 2nd pitch starts with a scary hard move up into the bulge and then reach right for a jug and a pull over the overhang to a great splitter crack. At top of crack go right and up, clipping one bolt on the way. Entire route done without bolts originally, bolts were added after the first ascent.
Submitted by: okieterry on 2006-01-16
Route ID: 62994
A great 5.7 route. The first pitch to the stance is a great start, but only 5.6. The move of the stance is a good 5.7. Once the 5.6 super jam crack is gained the route continues at no more than 5.6 to a great place to view the surrounding countryside. Rappel needs 2 ropes or a 70 metre rope to avoid downclimbing the last 10 ft like we did.