Bolted line to the right of the Hobbits 2nd pitch. Some think the direct line could go harder than it's rating of 10d. A traverse from the left allows an easier entry to the line and you should be able to clip the first bolt from the ledge. Crux just above third bolt.
Submitted by: cchildre on 2006-01-16
Route ID: 70293
Start directly below 1st bolt for a true 11+ experience, otherwise traversing in from the left never allows the climb to reach true 11 status in my book. Old guidebook rates it at 10d, which I would concur with. Very fun line, features and moves that rivals all of quartz. Although short, this climb is truely 4 stars. May have to lead next time Im up that way.
Redpointed this baby after two or three previous topropes; cool-ass route! I'll be on this one again, and again. Wild, balancy and inobvious moves -traverse in is do-able but no gimme, either. Look forward to direct-starting it someday. This was my first 10d redpoint that really deserves the rating. (Dec 2005 entry after first go): opted for the left-side start following sean's clean lead; took 2 hangs that I'm now pissed about. Wish I'd been more pissed at the time - typical headgame of mine. Gettin' better. (More 11/07 comments: that was exactly right! I wanted it more, and I got it. Not the only difference, but a significant one)