Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Possibly Leinau 4/06
boulder start, trad gear higher up
Out past the "Hand Crack" route, to the right, there's a LONG horizontal bulge/roof section of varying height with a large ledge on top of it (and no routes listed in the guidebooks: mostly overhanging friction). Towards the left end of this formation, where the slab below is 15-20 feet tall, there is a fissure splitting the double-bulge resulting in two short sections of unique 5.9ish crack climbing. Getting up to them requires two or three funky slab moves off the ground, up to a good stance. One cool feature of this route is that both belays are in the shade: tree shade on the ground, and a nice slot back away from the lip for the leader to drop down into, creating a nice "positional" belay: i.e., the leader doesn't need to set pro as there's no way a fall could pull him out of that slot - and plenty of friction on the rope to help out. You could squeeze at least one more pitch out of this route, on the slab/ledge stairsteps above.
"Cheap Whisky" sounded right: short approach, shady belays, and a lot of bang for your buck! Definitely worth a shot.
Scramble way right to a 4th class descent on a knobby face or traverse left on the big flake and past the cactus-choked "Hand Crack" route until you see some rap anchors. (No idea what route these anchors are for, there's no obvious line below them!)
Submitted by: leinosaur on 2007-03-25
Route ID: 84066
The bouldery start i would rate around 10a with the two crack sections dialing in at 5.9. Second crack section is the funnest with a thin hand crack in the back of a flaring bulge. Akward and sequential but well protected. Cheap whisky always does the trick
Spring Gathering 2006, Beam and I were exploring in the area and he led the long horizontal fist crack/ face climb traverse under the big bulge formation, from the right. He set up a belay below these cracks and gave me the lead up. Marc Johnston happened by, and when asked he assured us that everything aroud there had been climbed at some point, but apparently had no specific knowledge or memory of anybody on this particular line. Last Friday (March 9 07) I finally got back to lead it from the ground below, and the slab section turned out to be pretty fun! Chris called the slab 5.10 but I think my height made it a bit easier.