85 foot long face climb 10 feet left of Matt's Ramp. First 20 feet is unprotected. Climb up left facing corner that is just a couple of feet right of the bottom of the big black dike. Mantle on to good holds and place the wire and the small cam in a horizontal crack. Then go up and through the steep section following two bolts. Then run-it-out on the slab above placing the medium sized cams to the anchors. FA Luc and Terry, May 28, 2005.
Submitted by: leinosaur on 2007-03-25
Route ID: 67031
Hangdog - Best climb we did out there (we didnt get to attempt the black dike because of the rain) Enjoyable thin 5.9/10 moves over solid rock up to a bolt 25/30 ft up. Attempted the crux numerous times before the light bulb went off and I figured out the sequence. After the first bolt, move right smearing both feet while reaching up to a sloper with your left hand while your right crimps a sidepull. Work your feet above the bulge and past the second bolt. Keep working up the left leaning sloping rail and grab onto the hidden hueco jug. After that its more 5.9 up to the chains. Would somebody please go grease up that windmill?