Routes : North America : United States : Oklahoma : Southwest : Wichita Mountains : Aerial Anticipation Wall : Death by Departure
Death by Departure - 5.10b
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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a #2 camalot would be handy, otherwise nuts and cams to 3 inches. two bolts.
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Description:
Fantastic exposure and good climbing on steep rock. This climb is getting better and better as it cleans up. First pitch will get your heart pounding (X rated - and somewhat dirty and loose) - start beneath ominous overhanging wall right as the trail meets the creek. climb up to 1st bolt, then head right on good holds. just when you're starting to freak, work the #2 into a weird leaning, shallow crack (kinda questionable), and then head up and over the overhang (good holds). Get next bolt and then climb thin dihedral (crux) above bolt to big ledge. Several small to medium cams needed for belay) second pitch - (R rated and loose/dirty) head out right edge (super exposed) of big red overhang, find great pro in a horizontal crack. then head left and up. You should find a perfect spot for a yellow TCU in a little pillar about midway up the pitch. Aim for the top (right leaning big crack). Squeeze up the loose feeling/chimney thing that overhangs everything and sling a boulder for the belay at the top. Whew!
Submitted by: okieterry on 2004-06-02
Views: 1023
Route ID: 18849
2 Ascents Recorded
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | R |
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Onsight ascent by: okieterry on 2004-06-05
(View Climbing Log)
spice
Jimmy had me lead both pitches onsight to fully enjoy this route. Excellent route, one of my favorites now.
Climbed it a few months later with Matt and Julie and they loved it too.
Climbed it a few months later with Matt and Julie and they loved it too.
Added: 2009-12-05
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Red Point ascent by: jimmyray on 2006-08-23
(View Climbing Log)
Ascent Note
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Added: 2006-08-23