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Unnamed - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Incredible route - strenuous hand jamming along a diagonal crack and then up a finger crack to the top. Felt like 5.10 to me but everyone has always called it the hardest 5.9 in the refuge...hmmmm?

Submitted by: okieterry on 2004-06-16
Views: 441
Route ID: 21446

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3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jimmyray on 2006-11-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-11-09

Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: berkly on 2006-02-28 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Followed sean up this incredible hand crack. Strenuous jams with one foot in the crack, the other smearing on the face. Crux is pulling into the vertical finger crack. Very fun sustained climb.

Added: 2006-02-28

  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: leinosaur on 2009-01-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Muy strenuoso

Awesome finish to the first of two climbing days on a backcountry permit - days in the 50's nights around 20 degrees . . . two layers of sleeping bags and hiding among boulders did the trick just nicely for a warm place to sleep. As for the route, no individual move is above 5.9 I guess, but almost the entire route consists of strenuous moves for that grade. This route is a nice complement to Tarzan Traverse on Crab Eyes which goes the other direction on bigger jams. Getting to the crack on this one is much less dicey though.
Original note 2/26/06: thirded up behind sean & berkly, quite strenuous! Got to use tough-to-clean gear as good excuse for a hanging rest or two. Would like to go back fresher and lead her up in style. Pro is bomber, but dang! I'd say 5.10 but the moves aren't hard hard, just sustained strain you know? something about a diagonal crack like that, is just awkward.

Witnessed by: berkly, sean, rest of posse
Added: 2006-02-26