Skip to Content

Lycra Sheath - 5.10c

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
small cam (blue TCU) and good bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 3.67/5
  Scenery 4.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

F.A. Gary Ballard, Mark Yarbrough (1988) Climb the face to the right of LTD.

Submitted by: okieterry on 2004-06-14
Views: 593
Route ID: 19431

6 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 6 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: Whoever on 2005-04-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Nice!

Yet another route I followed Tony on! Very nice!

Added: 2011-08-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: gballard on 2010-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Lycra Sheath Revisited

I had been thinking about returning to Lycra Sheath for the past 5 years. Finally!! I was standing at the top of one of the boldest endeavors I have ever taken on. 22 years ago, climbing at our abilities Mark Yarbrough and I bolted this route on lead using 5/16" rawl drive pins and Leeper Hangers. (replaced in 1996 and really look solid) Seeing it again yesterday I am glad I did not fall after the third bolt on the first ascent because I think I would have broken my ankle on the big ledge. On this day, I rapped part way down LTD, tied into the rope on the bolted anchors for Lycra Sheath. I looked up at the 80 feet of vertical wall. I remembered nothing about this climb for sure, as it all seemed different than my experience 22 years ago. I was saying stuff like, "Did they change where I originally put the bolts?" I sure don't remember the horizontal crack right of the first bolt that you can traverse out on to before starting your ascent to the second bolt. There are a lot of solid hand and foot holds on this route. I narrated as I started to climb, "Sweet Baby Jane thatís a solid hold". In two areas my ascent was delayed; I hung on to the wall trying to find a better hold, but I eventually figured out that the only hold available was a 5.10c hold and I had to make the move and the high step. Above the third bolt, maybe 2 feet, there is a placement for a #2 TCU. I also did not remember the route being as hard as it was above the third bolt. I came to another one of those crux moves where the hand hold is crystallized but only about 3/16 of an inch wide. My feet now are several feet above where the last placement would be, I find another spot where a #2 TCU could be placed. This would be the ankle breaking area. I almost have it, but in a lesson I learned; "It isn't over until you clip the anchors", keep your head on the climb. I now had my hands in the horizontal crack 5 feet below the top. A #2 or #3 cam can be place here. There was still some 5.9 moves to be made. With both my hands jammed, I placed a right heal hook kind of move on the ledge, moved my right hand to the corner for a semi lie back. Now standing on the ledge I mantle to the summit and give the climb the Olympic gymnastic hands in the air move for a successful TR send of Lycra Sheath 22 years after the first ascent. I am stoked that I ALMOST still have it at 50. I say almost still have it, because if I still had it, I would have sent it again on lead.



Added: 2010-05-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: leinosaur on 2008-11-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars good one - will get to know it better

top roped first - was glad I did! Didn't quite get it clean, but will next time.

Added: 2008-11-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: okieterry on 2003-10-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars with jimmy

top roped first, what a mistake!! led no falls, had a couple of TCUs for crack near top.

Added: 2007-01-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jimmyray on 2006-08-31 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-08-31

... Read all 6 ascent notes