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Fuson's Folly - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
Rock
one piton, nuts and cams from 0.4 inch to 4 inches. runners
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

FA by OU Mountaineers, early 1980s. Climb left leaning crack system on the right side of the steep south face of lost dome. crux is located just past fixed pin. pin was placed around 1979 or so on the 1st ascent of the climb so be sure to sew it up in the crack below the pin. fixed anchors at top - make 115 feet rappel (or rappels) to ground or scramble off north side.

Submitted by: okieterry on 2004-06-09
Views: 190
Route ID: 19618

Most Recent Photo

9 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: okieterry on 1981-06-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars can't remember exactly

when i did this first but i usually do this climb every time i'm at lost dome. one of my favorites. i saw larry fuson at the airport (he lives in sacromento california now) he told me about his attempt with mark herndon belaying when he fell and hit his head. he said that he had pulled over bulge then fell...no pin then so he had gone all the way to that ledge below.....

Added: 2007-01-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Alpenstock on 2006-11-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fuson's Folly

This is a well protected crack climb until you get to the body sized chimney. The friction climbing alternative to the body chimney probably goes at about 5.9.

Added: 2006-11-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jimmyray on 2006-11-14 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars

Partner: ?

Added: 2006-11-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: cmoxley on 2006-10-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun

fun

Added: 2006-11-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: berkly on 2005-10-31 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I really dug the exposure this line provided. Strung into one pitch without any rope drag. Crux face moves are sequential and provided excitement for an otherwise easy line. Then you get sweet hand jams, arm bars, chicken wings, backstepping chimney moves the rest of the way. Excellant climb.

Added: 2005-10-31

... Read all 9 ascent notes