Average Rating : 4.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
Terry Andrews 1989
four bolts and one fixed pin
FA by Terry Andrews and Russell Dutnell, 1989. Start is about 7 feet left of the waterstreak (Tied to the Whipping Post).
the following is by aaron gibson - Rap Bolters shoots up the middle of Lost Dome's steep, south face on orange granite streaked with flourescent yellow lichen. Thin horizontal edges, delicate footwork, long reaches and a tricky finish make this climb a classic. It's the kind of quality you'd like to find on every Wichitas climb.
Expecting to casually cruise through the opening moves of Rap Bolters could be a serious mistake. The first bolt is about 15 feet off the deck, the holds are deviously positioned and your footwork must be precise. A sudden slip before clipping the bolt would be painful. Unless you have cat-like landing skills, a pro-wrestler for a spotter, or are certain you won't fall, stick-clip the first bolt. Then, take a deep breath and prepare to crimp.
Once past the first bolt, climb thin edges, some a half-inch thick, some much smaller, and clip the second bolt. Next, a short series of ultra-thin edges brings you to the first "hard" moves, a side- step into a solid undercling and a long reach. There are different ways to make it through this section. You can stay left and reach for tiny crimpers until you can clutch the undercling, or you can move right immediately after the second bolt. Whichever way you choose, get through it quickly because the pump is about to attack!
Above the third bolt, find a thin pinch hold with your left hand, pull hard and high-step to reach a jug. This is the move most climbers consider the crux. Once past the pinch, the holds become larger, but your forearms tighten up and your breathing becomes labored. Clip the piton buried in the horizontal crack and shake-off the approaching pump.
Though the holds are better on the upper wall, the angle steepens considerably. Pull through this section, clip the last bolt and get ready for the final crux.
Find some positive holds on the lip of the upper wall where it meets the slab above, and then reach to a seemingly invisible sloping edge. If you are not nervous yet, you will be soon. Reach further for a better edge, that is, if you can find it, and use it to hoist your feet onto the slab. Now you are really feeling exposed. Don't look down at the bolt, just keep going up and right. And don't make THE mistake. It's easy to do. You think you're there, you think the next hold is good enough to make a little jump for, so you go for it...and you scrape-off for a 15-footer. Instead, stay focused and take the last moves cautiously. A couple of more slabby moves and you are at the anchors. Even if you have climbed the route a dozen times, you will still let out a sigh of relief when you reach the belay.
Submitted by: okieterry on 2007-01-22
Route ID: 19615