3/11/05 seconded berkly on this killer route - thought I wasn't gonna make the crux at all! This one's sending me back to the bouldering cave, to strengthen up and return to lead it. Four days later I'm still pretty scraped up from this baby. Poor technique, I know! 5.9 is a sandbag on this one, in my book. Whew!
But I'm keen to get back, to tackle this and the roof corner which looks like fun too.
4/9/06 Redpoint! Big #4 down low, too much pro in roof, crux is a struggle but the jams are so good, no prob - even hanging from 'em for a while, kick the #2 a few times between toe jam pushes and trying to find that left-toe jug . . . but finally it works with a good effort and . . . the jams win over in the end. Sweet, sweet jams. I'll be leadin' that again! Got to, to do it w/o totally screwing up the pro/rope situation. Longer sling on the #1 would have done the trick though. rope drag before I top out and have to downclimb to build anchor and lower to unstick gear, then take too long on the belay. Then belayed J Paw on Baldilocks, (2 falls on the crux bolt) had a shot (nice finger crack!) and then follered his Kingfisher Caravan lead. I made it harder this time than I ever did - even onsight.
Witnessed by: pawley, larry 05:berkly