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Atomic Cafe - 5.8

Average Rating = 2.71/5 Average Rating : 2.71 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (20)
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Rock (Trad)
G
Nuts and cams from 0.25 to 3 inches. Bring a big rack. This route gobbles up pro...
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.25/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 2.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

Serious route. Involves climbing on some unstable rock and challenging protection. This route follows the crack that diagonals to the right. Start below and slightly right of the crack and boulder up and left (felt like 5.9 to me but what do I know....TA) to reach the crack. First opportunity for pro is about 10 to 12 feet up. Follow crack until it is possible to make a traverse right into another crack system. Carefully climb over several bulges (kinda chossy) to the top (about ten feet left of the anchor bolts on Taco Time. Use a tree about 30 feet back for the belay.

Submitted by: okieterry on 2005-11-28
Last Modified: 2010-07-20
Views: 922
Route ID: 23895

20 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: theresister on 2010-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars top roped

I tried this first and got up about head high and found a hard spot. I ended up starting to barn door and made a dynamic diagonal leap for a two handed grab of a ledge to my left and made it. Got to about 50ft up and found another spot that was hard. I actually started to feel my fingers going and ended up slipping off the holds. Rested for a second and got to the top.

Added: 2010-07-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: whui1025 on 2010-06-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars TR

Crux is start and midway traverse right. Key for traverse is not to climb too high over the crack.

Added: 2010-06-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mydogscout on 2009-12-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars aa

a

Added: 2009-12-15

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: foreverwild on 2007-10-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Phew

Followed my partner on the most challenging 5.8 I have seen.

Added: 2007-10-25

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: needlzdos on 2007-01-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Date?

TR'ed route. Felt the start was the hardest. Sustained 5.8 climbing.

Added: 2007-04-23

... Read all 20 ascent notes