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The Increasing Grade - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 8
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Gardner Hui & Kevin Earls
Rock (Trad) (Toprope)
R
1
Very few. Rocks are loose lower left and upper right so stay a straight 30-degree traverse to left -- in between are pretty good rocks but hard to find pro.
70
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 2.50/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 2.50/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

First locate Taco Time -- it start at the left side of a boulder. Walk around the boulder. The Increasing Grade start from the right side of the boulder. There's a big and a small tree there. Start right of the trees as well to prevent damaging them. Face climb at 30-degree traverse left towards an arete. The climb start easy 5.4, then becomes 5.5, 5.6, 5.7, etc. till at the arete 5.9. Thus the name of the route. There's a jug on top of the arete -- reach to it is the crux. Top off from the jug or traverse left to the double-bolt top anchor of Taco Time. The route is full of lichen and absolutely no chalk mark -- indication of no traffic so far. To top belay, try not to use the trees 20-30 ft back from the edge. There's a rock horn on the ground 15 ft back that you can loop you rope on it.

Descent Options:

Either rap down the double-bolt top anchor from Taco Time, or hike down from the left side of the wall.

Submitted by: whui1025 on 2010-06-09
Views: 601
Route ID: 105267

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: theresister on 2010-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Exploring routes

Gardner and I threw the ropes over the tree to the right of Taco Time and climbed the chossy, lichen covered face diagonally to the bolts of Taco Time. It starts off very easy and steadly gets harder. Gardner had to traverse to the left to the crack of taco time about 15 feet from the top to get to the bolts. I pulled off a very reachy move on the acrete in order to top out.

Added: 2010-07-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.1
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: whui1025 on 2010-06-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars TR

Need to go back and scout out some pro placements. Not sure the crux at arete is 5.9 or 5.10. Will call it 5.9 now.

Added: 2010-06-09