Doctor Coolhead - 5.10d

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Very hard, balancy and delightful.

This route certainly challenged my balance on small edge toeholds. Many times I felt the best move was to raise the foot high and rock onto it to push up.

Well, who would think that the only time I would fall off this route would be when I would try and lead it. didn't trust my left foot and dicked around for too long, I was standing on the ledge 30 ft up and started to feel myself coming off, spotter hit my left shoulder blade to keep me from hitting the boulder at the bottom and caused me to corkscrew/frontflip onto the step below and cartwheel onto my ass. I hit my back on the next ledge down. I had to pathetically walk...or I should say hobble the walk of shame out of the Narrows with the help of very nice climbers and drive my sorry ass back to wichita. So now I sit helplessly at my computer with my broken right foot (3 fractures) and sore left knee. Dr. Coolhead had mercy on me that day... You want the real DR. CH challenge?? Jump off at the first bolt and try hopping out of the narrows on one foot. HA! Never the less, I WILL be back to kick Dr. Coolhead's ass...With my right foot! On a serious note...do respect the danger of this route, it has killed people in the past. Don't lead it unless you fully commit yourself to it. Belayers, urge your climber to protect themselves in the horizontal/vertical crack...and prepare to run if they fall. I was stubborn and wanted to "Climb the route as it stands" despite my belayer urging my to take a cam... Yup, what a dumbass. However, I have now gained a greater respect for the climb and my rope/gear. It's just the nature of the beast.

I am tired of getting kicked down by this thing. Still no pinkpoint.

Suggesting a downgrade to 5.10c, considering that Blades of Steel has recieved the rating of 5.10d. B.O.S. is at least a single letter grade harder, and the Dr. was originally rated 5.10a by Chuck in the first guidebook.

Sidenote: You can't redpoint or flash anything while on top rope.