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Fantasy Roof - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.89/5 Average Rating : 3.89 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (28)
Rock
nuts and cams up to 4 inches
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.83/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Two ways to climb it. Either start under the roof or a shallow dihedral just to the right both about 5.7. Turn the roof after placing a big cam in the horizontal crack formed by a big flake that sticks out. Climb the face above using 2 cracks for pro. Quality rock! F.A. Fantasy Ridge Guides (1982)

Submitted by: superdiamonddave on 2006-01-15
Views: 297
Route ID: 19442

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28 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: donovanrtx on 2009-11-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Easier when on it

I found this a little daunting when looking from below, but once I was on it, all the holds seem to just appear when I got there.

Added: 2009-11-09

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: kubok13 on 2009-04-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars none

none

Added: 2009-04-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Cheales on 2009-01-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Very cool

This rought was not hard but it was kind of scary on the slab just above the roof

Added: 2009-01-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: JohnCook on 2008-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars TR

A magic little route. The first diheral is fun, the step across interesting and the final cracks make a fitting finish. Wish I had lead it before I toproped it.

Added: 2008-06-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: eshep7199 on 2008-05-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars easy top rope, pretty good lead.

I used #2 & #3 cams up to the roof, and placed my big boy BD #6 in the roof, after that I used primarily small nuts and aliens, and my #0 & #00 metolius. The crack just over the roof is the crux and the only real challenge on lead.

Added: 2008-05-11

... Read all 28 ascent notes