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Fantasy Roof - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.85/5 Average Rating : 3.85 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (32)
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Rock
nuts and cams up to 4 inches
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.12/5
  Rock Quality 4.11/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.62/5

Description:

Two ways to climb it. Either start under the roof or a shallow dihedral just to the right both about 5.7. Turn the roof after placing a big cam in the horizontal crack formed by a big flake that sticks out. Climb the face above using 2 cracks for pro. Quality rock! F.A. Fantasy Ridge Guides (1982)

Submitted by: superdiamonddave on 2006-01-15
Views: 1133
Route ID: 19442

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32 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: pspnevo3 on 2011-11-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars I'll definitely go back to this one

Intimidating lead, but great exposure and moves. Chossy start under the roof (so bad gear), but once you get to the diving board the rock is 5 star quality with solid placements.

Added: 2012-01-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: captaincrimp on 2010-03-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars wow

another great 5.8! get some sweet pics from the 5.6 to the left.

Added: 2010-03-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
Second Second ascent by: whui1025 on 2010-03-14 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Second Kevin

My crack skill is not good yet. 5.8 crack feels harder than 5.9 LTD friction (bottom) face (2nd pitch)

Added: 2010-03-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mydogscout on 2009-12-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars a

a

Added: 2009-12-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: donovanrtx on 2009-11-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Easier when on it

I found this a little daunting when looking from below, but once I was on it, all the holds seem to just appear when I got there.

Added: 2009-11-09

... Read all 32 ascent notes