(5.11a / R / 100ft / gear .5in to 2.5in, 1 bolt, 2 fixed pins, natural belay)
Climb the blocky overhangs left of the Dihedral. To start, crawl to the uphill side of the cave, boulder to the balcony on top of it, and being mindful of the fall zone, set up a natural belay. Climb the small, lichen-covered, flaky-flake that accepts protection reluctantly. Above, pull the overhanging step and climb runout slab (5.8 / R) to a horizontal crack and the first piece of decent pro (fixed angle). Continue on small edges to a hanging arrangement of pronounced blocky holds. Be suspect. These holds appear precarious and itís a healthy idea to yank as lightly as possible. Pull up and hang on, good protection is waiting under the next overhang (5.10). Here, the route intersects with Masterís of Reality. Reach left for the finger crack in the mini-hang and climb it until it dissipates. A long move gets you to the next overhang and another hidden piton. From here the route diverges from Masterís of Reality and climbs directly up the black bulge. Crank hard moves to a bolt and surmount the final gray rock on thin edges and sidepulls. The difficulty eases as the line draws into a small alcove. Set up a natural belay in a rotten flake, or continue on easy climbing to the top and a bomber natural belay (gear 1in to 3.5in) under a block. Backup all fixed gear if possible.
Hazard alert: Due to potential loose rock, and the potential for climber-generated rockfall, itís respectful to climb Knuckle Sandwich when there are no other climbers on lower Zoo Wall.
Exit Variation (Masterís of Reality / 5.10b): Avoid the crux and finish on Masterís of Reality (5.10b).
Submitted by: coconutz on 2006-01-15
Last Modified: 2006-11-18
Route ID: 19445
Followed Toph up this crusty line. Basically climbed the Dihedral up to the flake, worked up to the three bolt anchor. Excellent line, which he'll probably send next time around. Knocked off a significant rock during my ascent, so the rockfall continues to be an issue.