(5.11- / TR or R / 80ft / gear .5in to 2in, 1 bolt, shares fixed belay with Crazy Alice)
Climb the mysterious TR that nobody does. It’s the somewhat contrived face-climbing lane to the left of Richard Pryor. The lower headwall section is super thin, and it’s hard not to deviate here, and there. Climb to the intersection of McBrides Mind, and continue on that route.
Sometime around the mid-1980s a mysterious bolt appeared, and has remained? While this bolt is certainly not placed optimally… it does enable lead attempts, with a crux section similar in nature and spice, to its “cool headed” neighbor out left. The lead basically follows a line directly under, and right of the bolt. Start by climbing the leftmost starting variation on Richard Pryor Route (5.7). Protect well at the end of the crack (gear .75in to 2in), and staying on the face, balance up to the horizontal edge-rail below the bolt; mantle up.
Clipping the bolt is height dependent. It necessitates an extremely delicate (read no hand holds) tiptoeing across the rail to facilitate reaching the bolt… real scary (read looking at a long fall). Respective of one’s height, and or boldness, consider shifty reach-tactics, such as a stiff draw, or totally take the cruiser way, and pre-hang a draw. Either way, once clipped, the game is to keep on the face, but generally climb up, and right of the bolt. Puzzle out how to obtain the underclinging flap above (5.11a), before intersecting with McBrides Mind (a.k.a. Leap Frog). Note: The first ascent of this route was established headpoint style (2003), and to date hasn’t had an on-sight ground-up lead? Lead bolt upgraded 2005.
Submitted by: superdiamonddave on 2006-01-15
Last Modified: 2006-11-18
Route ID: 19454