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The Unfinished Piece - 5.6

Average Rating = 2.75/5 Average Rating : 2.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 3.33/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.33/5

Description:

This trade route was mysteriously absent from the latest guidebook. The route starts at a cedar tree immediately to the left of the Yellow Corner and underneat a large roof (Sweet Jesus). Two alternatives exist for the start. You can start directly below the huge roof, cruising up an easy ramp about halfway towards the roof, then traverse towards the right. Alternatively go straight up from the cedar using a couple of easy jugs in a line intersecting the right edge of the roof. In either case step over a bulge into a clean dihedral slot ending at a dead tree. From here there are also two variations, left or directly up. If going left you may want to belay in the vicinity of the tree (2-3 inch pieces). The direct finish takes the obvious slot up from the dead tree area - feels harder than 5.6 (maybe 5.8?). The not-so-direct finish traverses left 10 feet or so from the dead tree towards another more slabbly slot (5.6) with some good exposure, easier climbing but with fewer gear placements. If you've climbed this numerous times it appears there's a hand crack between the two finishes that could also be used for a change of pace.

Submitted by: cordata on 2006-01-15
Views: 895
Route ID: 19464

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11 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: theresister on 2012-05-19 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Henrey and I

Henry and I climbed this after setting gear for an hour or so on Henry's Intermidiate class.

Added: 2013-04-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bigfatrock on 2009-01-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars BS 5.6

This is NOT a 5.6. At the roof you have slopping slab for foot work with thin holds to pull and a funky drop knee is required to advance and then stem out as you pull the roof. I don't care what anybody says, it's not 5.6, no way, no how. I'm going to say 5.7, but I may even go as high as 5.8. The exposure moving to the roof and pulling the roof is nice! But overall, really fun route.

**edit to my original note** Recently saw an REALLY old guide book. It shows the 5.6 line going left of the slot above the tree. That line is the 5.6, but pulling the "roof-slot" is more like a 5.8. Either way the top-out is dicey. Little protection exists going far left.

Added: 2009-01-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: cchildre on 2008-05-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Finished it,

Took the direct finish this time, and pretty good.

Added: 2008-05-05

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jimmyray on 2006-11-16 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars

Original partner: Joel Dworkin

Added: 2006-11-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: berkly on 2006-10-12 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

5.6 if you use your feet corectly, up to the hand jam

Added: 2006-10-12

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